Alma-Ata
Tragedy on the Pobeda settlement in 1955. Tien Shan
Committee on physical education and sports
Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR
Republican club of climbers and
tourists. REPORT on the work of the high-altitude sports research
expeditions to the Central Tien Shan to Pobeda Peak
7.439.3 meters.
/ July - September 1955 / Alma-Ata
1956
1. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE AREA The mountainous country of the Tien Shan comes with its ranges into the southeastern part of the Kazakh SSR, and its main, central part is located on the border with China, occupying the eastern part of the territory of Kyrgyzstan. Huge glaciation, high peaks and among them the highest point of the Tien Shan - Pobeda Peak - 7.439.3 meters, harsh climate, turbulent mountain rivers, unknown and unexplored riches of the bowels have long attracted the inquisitive minds of travelers, scientists, climbers and climbers to the Central Tien Shan . Despite the available information about the central part of the Tien Shan, compiled by many expeditions, the Tien Shan remains far unexplored, the most difficult mountainous region of the USSR. There are especially many troubles when studying this mountainous country from the changeable weather of the highlands, there are not even systematic meteorological observations in the central glaciated part of the Tien Shan. The particular difficulty of working in the mountains is due to the instability of the weather with a minimum air humidity of 90 percent, sharp fluctuations in temperature from + 25C. up to -40Сgr. and the most unexpected intrusion of cold fronts bringing bad weather with gale force winds. This explains the low attendance of the Tien Shan by sports expeditions. Starting from 1921 to 1955, not much more than a dozen sports expeditions visited the region of the Central Tien Shan, having mastered only 9 peaks. Until now, its highest point, Pobeda peak - 7.439.3 m, remains unconquered. A feature of this area is also its inaccessibility. Mountain rivers, high passes, indented and long glaciers, take travelers a lot of time and effort. The traveler, in order to achieve the goal in the Central Tien Shan, must prepare himself for the most diverse form of transportation from an airplane to a car, on horses or mules, and in all cases ending on foot with a large shoulder load in a backpack. A special place in this remote area is occupied by the Khan-Tengri peaks - 6.995 m., Pobeda - 7.439.3 m. and others. Geographical discoveries and a description of the location of mountain ranges, major glaciers date back to 1929-38. and 1943. Started back in 1902-1903. German scientist G. Merzbacher. A particularly valuable contribution was made by Ukrainian expeditions led by the now Honored Master of Sports M.G. Pogrebetsky. For the first time, diagrams and maps were drawn up about this "blank spot" on geographical maps. Separate small sports expeditions, which set primarily sports goals, sometimes supplemented and refined information about this area. The final topographic refinement of the Eastern part of the Central Tien Shan was made by the military topographers of the Turk.VO under the leadership of Lieutenant Colonel Rapasov in 1943. This topographic group belongs to the determination of the height of the peak, later called Pobeda and turned out to be the highest point of the Central Tien Shan. Earlier, in 1938, a group of Moscow climbers led by Honored Master of Sports A.A. Letavet tried to climb it. It was the first attempt to subdue an unknown giant. The first attempt to climb the highest peak Pobeda Peak ended in failure. Difficult meteorological conditions, a miscalculation in height, led the group to frostbite on its slopes, the climbers managed to reach a height of 6.950 meters. A visit to the Central Tien Shan by climbers of Kazakhstan began in 1935 with reconnaissance of the approaches and ascent routes to Khan Tengri Peak - 6995m. With the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak in 1936 and Chapaev peak - 6320m. in 1937, climbers of Kazakhstan opened the first pages of high-altitude ascents in the area. IN post-war years, in 1949, climbers of Kazakhstan organized an expedition to climb Pobeda Peak. 1949 was especially different from previous years with unstable weather, heavy snowfalls and powerful avalanches. All this made the work of climbers so difficult and dangerous, who twice fell into avalanches and from a height of 5640 meters were forced to return to the base camp on the Zvyozdochka glacier - 4300m, and then descended from the mountains with minor injuries and minor frostbite among the participants. This was the second unsuccessful attempt to climb Pobeda Peak. Persistently conducted reconnaissance of the way to the highest peak of the Central Tien Shan, climbers of Uzbekistan and Turk.VO. Two seasons 1952-1953 they spent in the area of Pobeda Peak, looking for ways to climb to the top, for which they climbed Chapaev Peak and Druzhba Peak, and, as always, invariably climbers had to deal with the unfavorable features of the Tien Shan climate. In 1954, after successful ascents to the Marble Wall peak - 6400m., Bayankol peak - 5790m. and a number of peaks in the north-eastern part of the Central Tien Shan with a height of up to 5000 m, climbers of Kazakhstan went to the Pobeda peak area with the task of climbing the Khan Tengri peak. The weather was unusually favorable, and the climbers successfully completed the ascent from 4 to 9 September. It was crowded in the area of Pobeda Peak in 1955. Expedition of the Kazakh club of climbers and tourists consisting of 28 people under the leadership of the Honored Master of Sports Kolokolnikov E.M. set itself the task of climbing Pobeda Peak along the eastern ridge. During the same period July-September 1955. The expedition of the Uzbek Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, together with a group of military climbers Turk.VO in the amount of 50 people, planned to climb Pobeda Peak along its northern ridge, and reached a height of 6500 m. Unfortunate weather and the death of the assault group of Kazakh climbers forced them to return without reaching the goal . Takova a brief description of region of the Central Tien Shan and the history of attempts to climb the highest peak of this region - Pobeda Peak - 7439m.
 Sketch - page - 1 From the archive of the expedition |
 Sketch - page - 2 From the archive of the expedition |
WORK OF THE EXPEDITION IN THE MOUNTAINS
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
ORDER
on the high-altitude expedition of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
Star Camp. No. 1. August 14, 1955
Expedition leader
Honored Master of Sports: /signature/ /E.Kolokolnikov/
Deputy expedition leader
political part: /signature/ /O.Batyrbekov/
/ Follow the signatures of the participants in the assault, who read the order /. After the announcement of the order, the issues of backup communication were clarified with the help of magnesium candles and electric lights, after which the group of V. Shipilov went in the direction of camp 4700m. accompanied by the commissioner of the expedition O. Batyrbekov and 3 members of the Turk.VO expedition. August 15 The group of V. Shipilov reached the camp 5100m. I made a trail to the Chon-Toren pass. August 16 The group of V. Shipilov went to the pass. The condition of the members of the assault group is good. The connection works great. By 17:00 the assault group reached 5850m. In the evening, the commissioner of the expedition O. Batyrbekov returned from under the pass. August 17 Communication with the group ended unexpectedly. The radio station Klein-FU-2 burned down. In the Zvyozdochka-1 camp, O. Batyrbekov and S. Zabozlaev were immediately sent to the Chon-Toren pass to fetch a radio station located in the 5100m camp. At the same time, they were given the task of establishing contact with Shipilov's group. It turned out that the Turk.VO group, violating the order of the Vsekomfizkult to climb in the second place, after the return of the Kazakh climbers, began the assault on August 15th. What was reported by radiogram to the authorized Master of Sports A. Gvalia. The Honored Master of Sports L. Yurasov arrived at the camp to observe Naryshkin's group. August 18 O. Batyrbekov, S. Zabozlaev returned to the Zvyozdochka-1 camp, brought a spare radio station. It was not possible to establish contacts with V. Shipilov's group. We get in touch every hour in its first 10 minutes by agreement in case of loss of connection. Horses arrived from the Green camp, but they could not get to the camp. Rapid melting and exposure of the surface of the glacier created a serious obstacle in overcoming the cracks. At 22:00 signaled with light. There was no answer from V. Shipilov's group. August 19 Members of V. Shipilov's group descended under the command of M.S. A. Semchenko as part of P. Menyailov, N. Shevchenko, R. Torodin. The group descended due to the illness of P. Menyailov and poor health of N. Shevchenko. A. Semchenko received an order on the morning of August 20 to go to the lane. Chon-Toren and stay there according to order No. 1 of the head of the expedition. A. Semchenko reported that everything was in order in V. Shipilov's group and that A. Semchenko had set up a tent at an altitude of 6300m. with food and fuel. On this day, communications with the assault group could not be established. During the night, heavy snow began to fall suddenly. August 20 The group of A. Semchenko cannot reach the pass. Severe bad weather, traffic on the glacier, due to poor visibility, is practically closed. The radio station of the V. Shipilov group does not answer the call. There is no connection. The snowfall doesn't stop. By 18:00 snow fell up to 65 cm. August 21 There is no connection. The snowfall continues. An attempt to break through the path between the camps did not lead to a result. The temperature drops noticeably. At 16-00 the snow stopped, the depth was 85 cm. August 22 Snow settled overnight. With difficulty, for the whole day, by the efforts of two expeditions, they made a path between the Zvyozdochka-1 camp and the 4700m camp. It snowed in the afternoon. August 23 Master of Sports A. Semchenko with a group went to the camp 4700m. Frost in the camp -10С gr. There is no connection with V. Shipilov's group. 24 August The group of A. Semchenko, advancing to the Chon-Toren pass, found U. Usenov, a participant from the group of V. Shipilov, in the crack. Ural Usenov fell into a crack at 10:00 am on August 23, where he stayed until 12:00 am on August 24, i.e. 26 hours. U.Usenov's condition is satisfactory. Frostbitten hands and feet. Usenov reported on the plight of V. Shipilov's group. Rescue measures have been taken. The plane was called. Medical assistance was provided to Usenov by the doctor S. Zabozlaev, who arrived with O. Batyrbekov at the camp at 4700m. 25-th of August The group of A. Semchenko delivered U. Usenov to the camp 4700m. and went to the camp 5100m. U.Usenov was taken to the camp by members of the Turk.VO expedition. U.Usenov's condition made it possible to interrogate him about everything that happened at an altitude of 6700m. with the group of V. Shipilov, after which he was transported, accompanied by doctor S. Zabozlaev, down to the landing site of the aircraft. All rescue operations were based on the information provided by U. Usenov. Here is what U. Usenov said: “A group of 16 people, in which I was, acting in accordance with the order of the head of the expedition, on August 14 at 16:00 from the Zvyozdochka-1 camp - 4200m., went on the ascent route. After 2 hours of travel, we reached the previously established camp, approximately at an altitude of 4700 m. An overnight stay was organized here. On the morning of August 15, in good weather, we went along the previously explored route to the camp under the Chon-Toren pass - 5100 m. During the day we went under the pass, where we spent the second night. On August 16, we reached the Chon-Toren pass and continued to move along the ridge and reached a height of 5800 m in a day. Here, in the evening, setting up tents, we stopped for the night. The weather was favorable. The mood of all participants was cheerful. On August 17, the whole composition continued to move along the ridge. In the evening, having stopped for the night, the head of the assault group, master of sports V.P. Shipilov, due to the poor health of the participants Menyailov, Shevchenko and Torodin, decided to return them down in the morning, led by master of sports Semchenko. On the morning of August 18 Comrade. Semchenko with a group of the above 3 people went down. And we - 12 people continued to climb the ridge. On August 18 and 19 they continued to move to the top. At eight o'clock in the evening on August 19, we stopped for the fifth night on the ridge, the height was approximately 6700 - 6800 m.
 List of participants in the assault From the archive of the expedition |
 Task number 1 From the archive of the expedition |
RESCUE
Traces of Usenov Ural at 19-00. On August 23, they were noticed by a member of the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee of Physical Culture and Sports Comrade Naryshkin. About what they were informed, the group of Semchenko A.A. Arrived at the camp at 4700 m. by order of the head of the Kazakh expedition Comrade Kolokolnikov. With the task of going up to establish communication with the group of Shipilov V.P. The mountaineers Shevchenko N.G., who set off on skis on the morning of August 24, and Menyailov P.M. Usenov U. was taken out of the crack, who reported the above events with Comrade Shipilov's assault group. Further rescue and search work was carried out by the combined forces of the two expeditions until August 28 under the joint leadership of the heads of the two expeditions, and later, due to the illness of Comrade Kolokolnikov, under the leadership of the Honored Master of Sports, Comrade V.I. department of mountaineering and tourism of the All-Union Committee Comrade Upenek B.A. On August 25, after the transportation of Comrade Usenov, with satisfactory weather, the group of Semchenko A.A., reinforced by the expedition members of the Uzbek Republican Committee, again headed to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier. On August 26, in the morning, the climber Menyailov, who was advancing on skis, discovered a trace in the area of the upper icefall of the Zvezdochka glacier, and soon the corpse of a member of the assault group of the Kazakh expedition Comrade Goncharuk A.F., who died, as was later established by a medical examination, from exhaustion and hypothermia. Leaving a corpse on the glacier, on August 26, a group of Semchenko A.A. reached the camp at 5100 m under the pass. The next day, a group of master of sports Naryshkin V.N., 4 people, with a radio station joined her. In deteriorating weather conditions, intermittent snowfalls on August 27, 28, 29 and 30, the joint group did not attempt to climb the Chon-Toren pass and the eastern ridge, fearing avalanches. On August 31, the group of Semchenko A.A. - Naryshkina V.N., by order of Comrade Ratsek, they were recalled downstairs for rest. The assault group of the Uzbek expedition was recalled down from the northern ridge of Pobeda peak on August 25 and descended to the base camp of the expedition on August 26. On August 27, a rescue squad was organized from its composition. The leader of the detachment of 8 people was the master of sports Nagel E.I. . They were given the task of following the route of the ascent of V.P. Shipilov's group. The detachment arrived at the camp at 4700 m on the same day. Its further advance up to the camp at 5100 m was exceptionally slow and ended on September 1. Despite the fact that the auxiliary groups of climbers under the leadership of Comrade. Snegireva N.A. proved in the same days the possibility of passing this path in a much shorter time. Detachment Nagel E.I. On September 1, he came lightly to the foot of the Chon-Toren pass and, stating the impossibility of further advancement due to the danger of avalanches, returned to the tents, and on September 2 of this year. base camp was withdrawn. On August 31, a combined rescue team arrived at the base camp of the expedition, 4200 m, formed in climbing camps near the city of Alma-Ata. On September 1, a group of climbers of this detachment, consisting of 8 people, led by the master of sports Shumikhin, took part in the transportation of the corpse of Goncharuk. On September 2, it reached the camp at 5100 m, and the next day, as part of 4 people, it went to the Chon-Toren pass and on the same day, without finding any traces of the members of the Shipilov assault detachment, returned to the camp at 5100 m. On September 5, arrived at the camp at 5100 m. rescue team of members of the Pamir expedition of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions. The next day, accompanied by an auxiliary group, the rescue team climbed the Chon-Toren pass there and spent the night. On September 7, the climbers of the Pamir Expedition of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions, led by the Honored Master of Sports Kuzmin K.K., began climbing the Eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak. As a result, it was clarified September 4 - at 17-35h. the detachment left the camp at 4200m. on the Zvyozdochka glacier as part of groups of t.t. Snegirev, Ugarov, and Kuzmin. September 5th. All groups left the camp 4500m. at 9:45 a.m. consisting of 24 people. At 13:00 on the glacier met a group of comrade. SHUMIKHINA descending down, motivating the descent by fatigue and ill health of the participants. He ordered the three most ill-feeling comrades to go downstairs together with T.T. NOZDRYUKHIN and FREIFELD, the rest 5 people. come back with us under the pass. To the camp at a height of 5100m. in the circus of the glacier Zvezdochka came at 17-15h. Comrade group. SNEGEREVA, leaving food, at 17-45 h. went down. The snowfall began at 15:00, intensified at 18:00, and stopped at 22:23. 6 September. From the camp 5100 m. at 11-30 h. an assault search group consisting of 7 people, accompanied by 3 people gr. UGAROVA and 3 people from SHUMIKHIN's group. All the way to the pass deep, to the waist, fresh snow. There are no signs of an avalanche danger. For 50 m before the exit to the pass and on the pass itself, there was a weathered crust. The temperature at 15:00 is -7C, the temperature at the pass at 19:00 is -15C. On the way to the pass, and especially on the pass itself, a constant strong western wind sweeps the snow. The height of the Chon-Toren pass is 5550 m. We climbed the pass at 17-45. The accompanying groups of 6 people, leaving food and taking the boots of the assault group, at 18-00 began to descend from the pass. September 7th. Came out from the lane. Chon-Toren at 11-15h. There is a strong wind on the ridge, frost -13C. The eastern ridge is very steep, up to 55 degrees in places. The snow condition is uneven - from dense icy crust to deep coarse-grained. Went on cats. All along the way there are traces of SHIPILOV's group, tin cans, pieces of paper, etc. At an altitude of 5800 m, traces of a bivouac were found - sites for 2 tents, and a little higher two more sites for one tent each. At an altitude of 6000 m, a broken ice ax bayonet was found on a steep drop in the ridge. Attempts to find the corpse of comrade. Suslov near the camp 5800m. did not give a result, also did not give a result searches on the rocks above the camp 5800m. At an altitude of 6000 m, the weather deteriorated sharply, a blizzard began. We stopped for the night at the black stones at an altitude of 6150 m. All the time there was a very strong wind and a snowstorm. Temperature - 18Сgr. At an altitude of 5950 m, traces of descent were found, leading to a cliff, a snow dump, to the V. Chon-Toren glacier. 8 September. We left bivouac 6150 m at 11-30. Blizzard, temperature -13Сgr. Climbing up to 30 m, we found the 2nd bivouac of the SHIPILOV group - 3 sites, on one of which there was a completely collapsed tent full of various things and products, including: binoculars, down mittens, socks, cats, and a wide variety of products up to chocolate . Probing the snow around the sites did not give anything. Climbing the flat part of the ridge, at an altitude of 6250 m, they found the corpse of a frozen person, who could not be identified. The man lay with his face buried in the snow. On the face were traces of abrasions and previous frostbite of the hands. He was dressed in a storm suit, down jacket and shackletons. Downy pants lay 50 meters above. Another 100 meters higher, along the way, there were broken bottles of medicines and a pencil. Climbing further, to a height of 6600 m, they found a second corpse, which they also could not identify. The man lay in the area of the 3rd bivouac gr. SHIPILOVA in a pose indicating that he either went to bed or wanted to hide from the bad weather in this way. An ice ax was stuck beside him. He was wearing down and storm suits, shekeltons, glasses. Traces of abrasions and frostbites were found on the face, and the hands, dressed in fur mittens, were also frostbitten. In the area of the bivouac, a bowl and food remains were found. Having risen to a height of 6700 m, approximately 50 m below the exit to the summit ridge, we found the last 4th camp of the SHIPILOV group. The camp consists of 2 sites, on which there are two tents torn to shreds. Various things are scattered on the grounds, including down suits, ice axes, shekeltons, cats, a large number of different products. A large niche was dug near the upper tent, in which many things and products were found. Attempts to find a cave in the rocks or near the rocks, about which USENOV seemed to testify, did not give any result, and in general it would be difficult to dig a cave in these rocks. 20 meters below the lower tent, on an ice ax, a double-length rope is fixed, which descends along the rocks and ends in an icy couloir leading to the faults of the north - the western wall of the ridge. At the end of the rope is a backpack. Traces of descent to the snowy plateau were also found. To the east of the ridge, the Chinese wall, they began at an altitude of 6600 m. Immediately after moving away from the ridge, these traces are lost. No other traces of the presence of the SHIPILOV group here, as well as the corpses of the other participants, could be found. In view of the complexity of the ridge and the extremely difficult weather conditions in which the search party had to work, the descent of the two discovered corpses down, of course, can lead to accidents with the rescue party and, in any case, to inevitable frostbite. Given the above, I decided to bury the found climbers on the ridge, which was done at an altitude of 6250 and 6600 m. Photographs and film shots of corpses, burial sites, bivouacs, etc. were made. Having finished the search work in the bivouac area at an altitude of 6700 m. at 19-30. group at 22:30 descended to a height of 6250m., where she spent the night. 9th of September. Descent from a height of 6250 m. started at 11-30. On the way to a height of 6100 m, the ridge and slopes leading to the east, China, were additionally carefully examined in order to find the corpses of comrade. Suslov, however, the examination of the slopes did not give any results. At 17:00, the group descended to the Chon-Toren pass and at 20:00 to the camp at 5100 m. During the descent, there was a blizzard and a hurricane-force wind blew on the entire ridge. 10 September. Together with the auxiliary groups, the camp at 5100 m was removed and along the way the camp at 4500 m and all the search parties were removed by 17-30. descended to the camp at 4200 m on the Zvezdochka glacier.- 1st day - 700 m.
- 2nd day - 480 m.
- 3rd day - 400 m.
- 4th day - 100 m.
This is evidenced by traces found in this place and ending in a fault. in/ the corpse of SUSLOV, according to USENOV, who died after an erroneous descent to the east from the ridge and a return ascent to a height of 6200m, may be on the eastern slopes of the ridge. 5. Despite the presence of the Zvezdochka glacier in the area a large number qualified climbers, the Turk.VO expedition, it should be noted that there was a significant delay in the deployment of active search operations in the area of the accident. The work began in essence only with the arrival of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions detachment on the Zvezdochka glacier, that is, after 11 days after receiving the first information about the misfortune. The timely exit of the search groups to the ridge could save the lives of some of the dead participants of gr. SHIPILOV. The references in this case to bad weather and avalanche danger cannot be considered satisfactory. Moving along the ridge on September 7-8. Search group comrade KUZMINA K.K. discovered the location of all the camps of the assault group Shipilov V.P. The group found - tents with food and things in the auxiliary camp at an altitude of 6130 m and tents of the 4th camp at an altitude of 6700 m, the corpses of climbers Ankudimov V.G - an altitude of 6250 m and Cherepanova P.F. - height 6600 m., who died while trying to descend. Traces indicating attempts by other participants in the assault to descend towards the northern wall of the eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak and onto the upper snowfields of the Chon-Toren glacier. Having buried the corpses of Ankudimov V.G. and Cherepanova P.F. on the ridge. Having made a survey, photo and filming of the places of the camps. Group of Kuzmin K.K. On September 9, it descended to the camp at 5100 m. And on September 10, all rescue and search teams concentrated in the base camp of the expedition at an altitude of 4200 m. and further search work was abandoned. Based on the testimony of climber Usenov U., materials submitted by rescue and search teams, the death of climbers, members of the assault group of the expedition of the Kazakh Republican Committee, was established, including: Shipilov V.P., Aleksandrov K.Ya., Solodovnikov I.G. , Goncharuk A.F., Ankudimov V.G., Akishev Kh.A., Sigitov B.I., Cherepanov P.F., Suslov A.D., Ryspaev E.M. and Selidzhanov R.M. Of them: The body of Goncharuk A.F. found in the upper reaches of the Zvyozdochka glacier on August 26. Transported and buried in Alma-Ata.
The body of Ankudimov V.G. found on the Eastern ridge of Pobeda peak at an altitude of 6250 m and buried on the spot.
The body of Cherepanov P.F. found on the Eastern ridge of the Pobeda peak at an altitude of 6600 m and buried on the spot.
The body of Suslov A.D., according to Usenov U., is located on the southern slope of the Eastern ridge near the camp at 6180 m. The location of the bodies of the remaining seven dead members of the expedition could not be established. Commission for the investigation of the accident, composed of honored masters chaired by Beletsky E.A. recognized the course of rescue work as insufficiently organized, writing down the following in her conclusions: Racek V.I., Yurasov L.B., heads of rescue teams and groups Semchenko A.A. and Nagel E.I. from the moment Usenov U. was discovered and information was received from him about the emergency situation of V.P. Shipilov’s group. until September 3, they were working at an unacceptably slow pace. At the same time, sufficient perseverance in achieving the goals set was not shown. The danger of avalanches from the slopes of the Ak-Tau peak and the Chon-Toren pass, which allegedly precludes the possibility of movement of rescue teams, was overestimated. At the same time, the climbers who were part of the detachments had sufficient technical and tactical training and material support to move along the relatively uncomplicated profiles of the upper reaches of the Zvyozdochka glacier and reach the Chon-Toren pass in rescue operations. Tov. Racek V.I. did not show sufficient perseverance during the first period of search work from August 25 to September 3 - 1955, when the organization of the search groups to go to the Chon-Toren pass and above would possibly have saved the lives of a number of comrades. Tov. Yurasov L.V. as the head of the rescue squad of the expedition of the Uzbek Committee and a member of the Presidium of the All-Union Section, knowing about the Committee's instructions on the order of climbing Pobeda Peak, did not take measures to prevent this violation by the climbers of Uzbekistan, did not show activity in search and rescue operations. Tov. Semchenko A.A. violated the order of the head of the expedition, leaving the camp "Zvezdochka-2" - 5100 m., which was planned as an observation post. Tov. Nagel E.I., who had at his disposal a detachment of the most qualified climbers, unacceptably slowly conducted rescue operations, overestimating the avalanche danger, incorrectly informed the rescue operations management about the impossibility of reaching the Chon-Toren pass. With the cessation of search and rescue operations, the remaining members of the expedition of the Republican club of climbers and tourists began to evacuate the expedition from the area of the Zvezdochka glacier in Alma-Ata, where it arrived. 4. CONCLUSIONS ON THE ORGANIZATION AND WORK OF THE EXPEDITION. Organization of the expedition to Pobeda Peak. Employees of the Republican club of climbers and tourists of the Kazakh SSR, headed by its head, A.F. Tufan. Despite the many difficulties that confronted them and beyond their control. Exceeding their strength and capabilities. They did a great job and in a short time created the material base of the expedition such that it allowed the inspection and control commissions to make fair conclusions that the expedition was organized as one of the best in the entire practice of the USSR sports expedition. However, despite all the efforts of A.F. Tufan, it was not possible to bring to life some issues outlined by the plans and calculations of the expedition. The high-altitude equipment ordered in Moscow through Fizkultsportsnab, like down sleeping bags, down suits, despite their high cost, were made on second-rate eider down. These things did not look good, in the conditions low temperatures were permeable to the cold. Tents and storm suits were not impregnated to protect against water. Fizkultsportsnab's dishonesty in fulfilling the special order seriously increased the transfer of difficulties in the face of sharp climatic fluctuations. Planned aerial reconnaissance of the route of assaulting Pobeda peak from the air. Due to the absence of aircraft with a ceiling above 8000 m in the Kazakh SSR, it was also not carried out. Which significantly weakened the possibility of correctly determining the route of the assault and especially its details. An extremely serious flaw in the organization of the expedition was the issue of communications. The absence of small-sized radio stations made in the USSR forced the organizers of the expedition to use Klein-Fu-2 stations, as is now known, stations of this type do not justify themselves from the conclusions of the commission. The absence of redundant means of communication increased the difficulty of the expedition's work in the mountains. A particularly unfinished issue in the organization of the expedition should be noted the transfer of the expedition by car. Sending the expedition in 3 echelons, due to the lack of a sufficient number of vehicles, did not justify itself, and moreover, it led to a delay and disruption of the expedition's work schedule. Pointing out the above shortcomings in the organization of the expedition, one cannot fail to note the good experience in organizing several expeditions conducted by the club, a relatively small team of employees of the Republican Club of climbers and tourists managed to accumulate experience and it can be fully argued that in the future this experience, of course, will find its practical application. In connection with the catastrophic death of the group of the master of sports V. Shipilov, the planned work of the expedition in the mountains was incomplete and not fully completed. The work of the expedition continued to proceed in the direction of further study of the Central Tien Shan and the training of new personnel of high-altitude climbers. It took place in 1955 in difficult conditions. A cargo weighing 8 tons, in the presence of 28 people and 30 horses, was successfully transferred to the strongholds with great efforts of the entire staff. In the course of the preparatory journey, research work was also carried out, thus, with the exception of the completion of the ascent to Pobeda Peak, the expedition team coped with the assigned work. All the conclusions characterizing the work of the expedition are built around the accident. An analysis of the accident with the group of the master of sports V. Shipilov, by studying all the facts of the work of the expedition in the mountains, made it possible to approximately explain the cause of death. This is reflected in the conclusion of the commission for investigating the catastrophe with the assault group of the Kazakh expedition, where, first of all, the reason lies in the group itself. The conclusion states: 1. The physical condition of the members of V. Shipilov's group and its provision with equipment, food by the time the weather deteriorated was such that with the correct actions of the group of its leader, there were all opportunities to prevent a catastrophe and save the lives of the ascent participants. The group could, hiding in tents or snow caves, wait out the storm and descend on their own or with the help of rescue teams. Proof of this possibility is the example of the assault group of the Turk.VO expedition, which successfully waited out the same bad weather. 2. The presence of two expeditions that had the task of completing the ascent to Pobeda Peak created unacceptable competition, the development of sports excitement in the group. 3. The head of the assault group, master of sports V. Shipilov, did not cope with his duties in a difficult situation and made a number of serious mistakes, which led to a disunited action of the group. 4. Violation of the tactical plan of the assault by the leadership of the expedition also led to the physical weakening of the group, which reduced the resistance of the group during the period of bad weather. However, the absence of facts of the actual action of the group at an altitude of 6.700 after the departure of U. Usenov makes it impossible to finally and affirmatively find the correct conclusions about the death of V. Shipilov's group. Nevertheless, all the previous points related to the disaster of the assault group should be carefully studied when organizing expeditions to the Central Tien Shan. Despite the fact that the expedition of the Kazakh Committee for Physical Culture and Sports ended the sports part of its work with a disaster, its experience, its work provides enormous material for revising the issues of high-altitude ascents in the USSR and makes a huge contribution to the most difficult sports events such as high-altitude mountaineering. Expedition leader
Honored Master of Sports: / signature / /E. Kolokolnikov /
1956
On the political and educational work among the participants of the high-altitude sports and research expedition to Pobeda Peak /July-September 1955/
The expedition began its work on July 1, 1955. 28 people took part in its work. Of these, there were 6 members of the CPSU, 8 members of the Komsomol. Even before leaving the mountains. Alma-Ata, party and Komsomol groups were organized. Comrade ALEXANDROV was elected Party organizer and Comrade Akishev was elected Komsomol organizer. The members of the expedition took 2-4 books with them to the area of operations of the expedition, among which were both political and fiction . The Central Committee of the Komsomol provided the expedition with sets of magazines Ogonyok and Krokodil for the second half of 1954 and the first half of 1955. The expedition took a volleyball with a net, chess and the necessary materials for the production of wall newspapers. Us before leaving the mountains. Alma-Ata, a plan of mass-political work was drawn up, which was approved at a meeting of the party group. This plan has been largely implemented. The main difficulty for its full implementation was that the expedition members were and moved all together for only 9 days. The expedition from the city of Alma-Ata left the city of Alma-Ata in three echelons on July 5, 6 and 15, and only on July 29 concentrated all together at the "Green" camp. We were in the "Green" camp on July 30 and 31, and from August 1 to 4 we all moved along the Inylchek glacier to the foot of Pobeda peak. During the work of the expedition, 4 party meetings were held, at which the following were discussed: "Plan of mass political work", "Results of the first stage of the expedition", "On the organization of the assault on Pobeda Peak", etc. Similar issues were discussed at general meetings after the party meetings . A number of conversations were held. For example: “Results of the July plenum of the Central Committee of the CPSU”, “On the conquest of the summit of Everest”, “How the assault on the Khan Tengri peak was organized in 1954” and others. In 2-3 days political information was carried out once. We took material for political information by radio through walkie-talkies. In the camp "Green" on July 31, the first issue of the combat leaflet was issued. Chess and volleyball games and chess competitions were held. If possible, especially in the evening, collective singing of songs was organized. The singing of songs was organized by comrades Usenov, Ryspaev, Akishev and Shipilov. Before the start of the assault, all members of the expedition read the books that they took with them. After that, an exchange of books was made, some books passed from hand to hand. The members of the expedition eagerly read and looked through the magazines Ogonyok and Krokodil. Separate facts of indiscipline were considered by the head of the expedition, where deputy. watered, party organizer, and sometimes the Komsomol organizer. For example, on July 31, in the Zeleny camp, they had a fight and almost fought, etc. Suslov and Ryspaev. This case was analyzed by us in their presence. On the eve of departure from the mountains. Alma-Ata had a bad attitude towards his wife from Sigitov. Having learned this, on June 30 we had a serious conversation with Comrade Sigitov and he promised that after his arrival from the expedition he would settle this issue, and draw up a policy in her name, she receives his salary. Repeatedly we talked with Comrade Solodovnikov about the fact that he often speaks foul language. By certain facts indiscipline we made comments immediately. Before any group left somewhere, we talked with the leader and with the whole group. After returning, they arranged an analysis of how they completed the task. We suggested to individual comrades that they send radiograms home. Such radiograms were given by t.t. Semchenko, Sigitov, Zabozlaev. Before the assault, we collected from everyone the text of the radiograms that they would like to transmit, and the radiograms were transmitted to the city of Alma-Ata. Before the assault, the moral and political state of the assault group was excellent. All participants had a great desire to storm and climb Pobeda Peak. The relationship between the participants was good. The discipline was positive, all tasks and assignments were carried out well, with pleasure. In general, the group was mentally prepared for the assault. The group is disciplined, efficient, ideologically sustained. There were no disagreements between the participants, except for the ascent tactics. On this issue, all participants, except for T.T. Grudzinsky and Suslov, supported the opinion of comrades. Kolokolnikov and Shipilov. All participants were against the association with the Turk.VO expedition and the Uzbek Committee. They believed and were sure that the group is better, safer to make the ascent with their own composition. Based on the observations I made before the start of the assault, I can characterize the individual members of the assault group as follows: 1.
Shipilov V.I. - a good climber, persistent, organizer, as the head of the assault enjoyed authority. His shortcomings were: the presence of elements of careerism in him, arrogance. Sometimes he commanded when persuading was needed. Comrade Suslov did not like him personally. 2.
Aleksandrov K.Ya. - hardworking, hardy, incorruptible, modest was cautious in making decisions. 3.
Cherepanov P.F. - Disciplined, reasonable person, but among his comrades he was closed. 4.
Solodovnikov I.G. - physically strong, hardy, cheerful, sociable person, he expressed his opinions directly and immediately. He liked to swear. 5.
Sigitov B.N. - hardy, disciplined, had organizational skills. In dealing with people, he is sharp, quick-tempered. He had elements of alarmism, sometimes exaggerating difficulties. 6.
Goncharuk A.F. - a modest, honest, very conscientious comrade. At work he was a great optimist. 7.
Ankudimov V.G. is a modest, sympathetic and efficient comrade. 8.
Akishev H.A. - Disciplined, responsive comrade. He loved public works and performed them with great willingness. He was modest, considered himself the most inexperienced and physically weak of all the participants. He was physically really weak. 9.
Suslov A.D. - politically literate, well acquainted with the history of many ascents. He allowed elements of arrogance, treated his comrades with disdain, believed that he himself knew better than anyone. In disputes, on almost all issues, he believed that only his own opinions were the only correct ones. 10.
Selijanov R.M. is a modest, very cultured comrade. Was closed. He did not express an opinion on the work of the expedition. 11.
Ryspaev E.M. - a very funny friend. Joked a lot. He liked to hurt someone, to tuck in. Sometimes lazy. 12.
Menyailov N.P. - a modest, very executive, hardworking comrade. 13.
Semchenko A.A. - hardy, careful comrade. Likes to command, in dealing with people as a senior is rude. 14.
Torodin R.M. - physically strong, sociable comrade, but sometimes cowardly, lazy, where possible "juice". 15.
Shevchenko N.G. - physically weak, hardworking, disciplined, but cowardly comrade. 16.
Usenov U. - hardy, physically strong, sympathetic comrade. Very hot, does not understand a friendly joke. Deputy Chief
political expeditions: /signature/ /O.Batyrbekov/ 1956.
on medical support for the high-altitude expedition of the club of climbers and tourists of the Kazakh SSR on the ascent to Pobeda peak in 1955
Monitoring of the state of the majority of the members of the expedition began with the period of autumn-winter training in 1954-1955. This observation was carried out by the medical-sports center and by me personally, as the expedition doctor. I have been familiar with the physical condition and health of many members of the expedition for a number of years. During the period of the final formation of the composition of the assault group and the final training, I, fulfilling the task of the Ministry of Health of the Kazakh SSR, was on a business trip, from which I returned on July 13, 1955, i.e. the day before the departure of the third echelon of the expedition from Alma-Ata. Insufficient attention to the formation and preparation of the expedition on the part of the leading organizations affected this front as well. I, as the expedition doctor, could not take part in a detailed study of the state of health of each member of the expedition and participate in the selection of members of the assault group, which was necessary, because. it was me, in the end, who decided the issue of allowing each member of the assault group to climb Pobeda Peak. Each high-altitude expedition must be accompanied by a large research work. The issues of human acclimatization in the conditions of high mountains have not yet found their final solution. In view of this, the original plan provided for the inclusion of a group of medical researchers in the expedition to conduct a series of physiological studies and observations of the state of the human body in high mountains. Changes in the estimate made it impossible for us to conduct a full-fledged research work also because the expedition was not equipped with the minimum equipment for scientific work. This, in our opinion, is also a consequence of the general attitude towards the expedition of the leading organizations of the republic. Both of these shortcomings significantly worsened the conditions for conducting medical control over the state of health, fitness, etc. and reduced medical control to elementary and standard rules and practices. Medical control over the state of health and fitness of members of the assault group. For the first time, we were able to get acquainted with the medical indicators of the state of health and fitness of all members of the expedition after the entire expedition concentrated in the Zelenaya Polyana camp. This primary medical examination of all members of the assault group took 2 days: 30 and 31 July. During this medical examination, no pathological abnormalities were found in the body of the members of the assault group. Blood pressure before exercise and in the dynamics of functional tests, the Kotov-Demin test, Clicquot and Orthostatic tests, remained within the normal range in all subjects. The indicators of all members of the assault group were good. The blood flow velocity fluctuated in the subjects within the average, normal figures. The second medical examination was carried out on August 13 before the group left for the assault. In the interval between the first and second medical examinations, the members of the expedition performed certain work at various altitudes from 3500 m to 5000 m above sea level and already had sufficient, so-called, work for these heights. active acclimatization. This repeated medical examination revealed the following: all members of the assault group, with the exception of Semchenko, Shevchenko, Torodin and Menyailov, had good indicators of functional tests, blood pressure, blood pressure dynamics during exercise, etc. Blood pressure in MS Semchenko was in the range of 150-170 mm Hg - correspondence before and after exercise. Insufficiently good indicators of functional tests and the state of dynamic changes in blood pressure were noted in Torodin, Shevchenko, Menyailov. The second group of subjects was divided into individuals with relatively good and excellent performance in all studies. The latter was obtained from the following climbers: Shipilov, Aleksandrov, Cherepanov, Sigitov, Ryspaev, Usenov, Selijanov, Goncharuk, Suslov. In connection with the change in the tactics of the assault and the division of the group into auxiliary and assault, it became possible to use the entire group of climbers in preparation for the ascent. Head of the expedition Kolokolnikov and the head of the assault group, M.S. Shipilov was informed of the results of the medical examination, indicating that the first group - Semchenko, Menyailov, Torodin, Shevchenko, should be used only up to a height of 6500-6600 m and be guided by the results of the medical examination and personal observation of the behavior of individual climbers in the formation of the assault group. Shipilov's first instruction was carried out, Semchenko and others returned from a height of 6500 m. Therapeutic and preventive work. The expedition was provided with medicines and trauma equipment perfectly. Almost any disease, including massive traumatic injuries, could be successfully treated before the patients were admitted to the hospital. During the period of the expedition before the assault, no serious illnesses were experienced by its members. Minor injuries did not require hospitalization or long-term treatment. During the period of reconnaissance work, the head of the expedition, senior officer Kolokolnikov, was diagnosed with mild cardiovascular insufficiency, although it was easily resolved under the influence of ordinary treatment measures. After the disaster with the assault group, Usenov, who had frostbite of the feet and hands of the II degree and general chilliness, needed persistent treatment. Rapid evacuation down to the district hospital, and then to the city, with continuous and persistent treatment during the evacuation period, made it possible to preserve his health and limit the levels of subsequent amputation to the phalanges of the right hand. Under the influence of psychic traumas, the state of the cardiovascular system in the z.m.s. Kolokolnikov. This required his immediate evacuation down to the district hospital in the village of Moydaadyr, and then to the city of Przhevalsk. Before going on the assault, the group received the necessary medicines and instructions for their use. Medicines were handed over to the head of the assault, the commanders of the tents and individually to each climber. All were consulted about the rules of conduct in case of possible diseases. expedition doctor,
candidate of medical sciences: /signature/ / S. Zabozlaev /
1956 Copy.
Kaz.SSR Club of climbers and tourists.
comrade Tufan A.F.
Committee for Physical Culture and Sports
under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
chairmen
SUMMARY from the order of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
№ 480.
dated July 6, 1955
about the expedition to Pobeda Peak
In accordance with the Decree of the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR No. 103 of February 18 this year, Republican calendar plan mass sports events for 1955, by the decision of the All-Union Mountaineering Section and the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR and the act of checking the readiness of the expedition,
P R I C A Z Y V A YU:
Paragraph I In the period from July 5 to September 25, 1955, conduct a high-altitude sports and research expedition to the Central Tien Shan from the ascent to Pobeda Peak-7439 m. Paragraph 2
The composition of the expedition to Pobeda peak is to approve the following:
1
. Kolokolnikov Evgeny Mikhailovich - head of the expedition /ZMS/ 2
. Batyrbekov Orazai Batyrbekovich - Deputy. early exp. p / hour / II category / 3
. Shipilov Vladimir Petrovich - assault commander. group. ./M.S./ 4
. Alexandrov Kuzma Yakovlevich - Deputy. early storm. group. /M.S./ 5
. Cherepanov Pavel Filippovich - participant /M.S./ 6
. Semchenko Alexander Arkhipovich -“- -“- 7
. Solodovnikov Ivan Gerasimovich - participant / I category / 8
. Sigitov Boris Ivanovich -“- -“- 9
. Torodin Rassvet Mikhailovich -“- -“- 10
.Usenov Uralkhan -“- -“- 11
. Ankudimov Vitaly Georgievich -“- -“- 12
. Goncharuk Andrey Fedorovich -“- -“- 13
. Akishev Khusain Akishevich -“- -“- 14
. Shevchenko Nikolai Grigorievich -“- -“- 15
. Suslov Alexey Dmitrievich -“- -“- 16
. Ryspaev Ergaliy Mustafanovich -“- -“- 17
. Selijanov Rostislav Mambetovich -“- -“- 18
. Menyailov Pavel Panteleevich -“- -“- 19
. Zabozlaev Sergey Sergeevich expedition doctor Ph.D. Sciences 20
.Grudzinsky Mikhail Eduardovich research worker. parts 21
. Opilko Grigory Fedorovich host expeditions 22
. Tkachev Ivan Fedorovich groom 23
. Gorokhov Gennady Mikhailovich groom 24
. Oblov Alexey Stepanovich cook 25
. Mulyendson Rudolf Markovich Art. cameraman 26
. Goncharenko Gennady Vasilievich cameraman 27
. Elagin Alexey Alexandrovich radio operator 28
. Sobolev Fedor Alekseevich radio operator Paragraph 3 To the head of the expedition of the ZMS, Comrade Kolokolnikov E.M. when conducting an expedition, strictly follow the guidance materials on mountaineering of the All-Union Committee for Physical Culture and Sports and the instructions of the Commissioner of the All-Comfizcult for the Kazakh high-mountain region. In connection with the conduct of 2 parallel expeditions to Pobeda Peak, the climbing procedure should be established in accordance with the telegraphic instructions of the All-Union Committee. Paragraph 4 To the head of the Republican club of climbers and tourists Comrade Tufan A.F. but/ provide the expedition with everything necessary for its successful work in the mountains. b/ maintain regular radio contact during the expedition. Paragraph 5 In order to provide additional security measures, when conducting an expedition to Pobeda Peak, ask the Authorized All-Union Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, comrade Gvalia A., for the period of the expedition, to create a joint rescue group of climbers from camps located in the Zaili Ala-Tau. Paragraph 6 To review the materials of sports groups climbing in the area of the expedition during the preparatory period, approve the route commission consisting of: 1.
Kolokolnikov E.M. - prev. commissions /c.m.s./ 2.
Grudzinsky M.E. - Deputy prev. /I category/ 3.
Shipilov V.P. - Member of the Commission /M.S./ 4.
Aleksandrov K.Ya. - -“- /m.s./ 5.
Cherepanov P.F. - -“- /m.s./ 6.
Semchenko A.A. - -“- /m.s./ 7.
Batyrbekov O.B. - -“- / II category / Grant the specified commission the right to consider materials on 5 “B” category of difficulty. Paragraph 7 I remind the leadership of the expedition to Pobeda Peak and all the participants of their great responsibility for conducting the expedition at a high sports and technical level and unconditional fulfillment of the tasks assigned to the expedition. Paragraph 8 This order is to be announced to all personnel of the expedition.
Chairman of the Committee
in physical culture and sports
under the Council of Ministers of Kaz. SSR: /signature/ /A.Artykov/
M.P. participants of a high-altitude sports and research expedition to Pobeda Peak. № Surname, name Year of birth. Home address Place of work and position Party. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1
. Shipilov Vladimir Petrovich 1929 Alma-Ata, 5th line No. 72. Respubl.klub alpine.commander of the assault rus. Komsomol 2
. Alexandrov Kuzma Yakovlevich 1925 Alma-Ata-1, Papanin St. No. 179 Republican. clubalpin. Chuvash VLKSM instructor 3
. Ankudimov Vitaly Georgievich 1929 Alma-Ata-1, st. Gabdullina №84 VKM turner rus. Komsomol 4
. Goncharuk Andrey Fedorovich 1928 Alma-Ata-1, Suvorov St. No. 76 VCh-4 boilermaker Rus. Member of the CPSU 5
. Akishev Khusain Akishevich 1933 Alma-Ata-2, st. Vinogradov No. 80 student of KazGU Kazakh VLKSM 6
. Semchenko Alexander Arkhipovich 1922 Alma-Ata, st. Ilyich No. 49 teacher of the department of physical education. KazMI rus. b/n 7
. Solodovnikov Ivan Gerasimovich 1921 Alma-Ata Republican club of the Alps. Russian instructor. b/n 8
. Sigitov Boris Ivanovich 1927 Alma-Ata st. Pushkin №7 Republican club of the Alps. Russian instructor. b/n 9
. Torodin Rassvet Mikhailovich 1925 Alma-Ata, 9th line No. 12, apt. 8 Z-d Kirov, shop No. 5, Russian turner. b/n 10
. Usenov Ural 1929 Alma-Ata, st. Krasin №57 Respubl. Alp Club. Kazakh b/n 11
. Cherepanov Pavel Filippovich 1917 Alma-Ata, Mechnikov St. No. 120, apt. 14 CommitteeFK and joint venture under the Council of Min. KazSSR, state coach, Russian. b/n 12
. Shevchenko Nikolai Grigorievich 1926 Alma-Ata, Chekhov St. No. 7, apt. 3 Alma-Ata-1, VCh-4, electric welder Rus. b/n 13
. Suslov Alexey Dmitrievich 1923 VOKS, factory con. insp. gr. Russian Cand. CPSU 14
. Ryspaev Ergaliy Mustafanovich 1931 Moscow, Lefortovo Val, No. 7-a, building 8 MEPhI student Kazakh VLKSM 15
. Selidzhanov Rostislav Mambetovich 1930 Moscow, Lefoto-vsky shaft No. 7, building 1-133 Moscow, MTZ engineer Rus. Komsomol 16
. Menyailov Pavel Panteleevich 1927 Stalinsk, Kemerovo region Ovrazhnaya 26 Instructor of the Metallurg Alpine Camp in Talgar. Russian b/n Note:****VKM - Wagon and wheel workshops of the railway. stations of Alma-Ata-1
****VCh-4 - apparently a military unit
****VOKS - (possibly) the All-Union Society for Cultural Relations with Foreign Countries (why zad?).
ORDER
CHAIRMAN OF THE COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORT
UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE USSR.
December 14, 1955. No. 459.
ABOUT THE EXPEDITION OF CLIMBERS TO POBEDA PEAK
In August 1955, while climbing Pobeda Peak, an accident occurred with a group of climbers' expedition organized by the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR. As a result of organized search and rescue operations and verification by a special commission appointed by the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR. Chairman of the Commission - Honored Master of Sports Comrade Beletsky E.A. The death of 11 climbers - members of the assault group of the expedition - was established. Shipilov V.P., Ankudimov V.G., Akishev Kh.A., Sigitov B.I., Cherepanov P.F., Suslov A.D., Ryspaev E.M. and Selidzhanov R.M. One of the main reasons for the death of the assault group is the fact that, having met with difficult conditions, worsening weather, blizzard and heavy snowfall, the members of the assault group were confused, acted in isolation, did not show themselves as a single, cohesive team. The attempted descent was unorganized. The head of the assault, Comrade Shipilov V.P. failed to organize a group to fight the elements. The gross mistake of the head of the group, Comrade Shipilov V.P. was that, having lost contact with the base camp, he continued to move up. With the correct actions of the group and its leader at the time of the deterioration of the weather, there were opportunities to prevent a catastrophe by hiding from the weather in tents or snow caves. The approved tactical plan for climbing Pobeda peak was rejected by the expedition leader, Honored Master of Sports Comrade Kolokolnikov E.M. the ability to resist bad weather and the ability to withstand the complicated conditions of ascent. In connection with the presence of two expeditions, the Kazakh Committee and the Uzbek Committee and the Turkestan Military District, the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR set the priority for the summit assault by the Kazakh expedition. However, the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee and the Turkestan Military District grossly violated this instruction by storming Pobeda Peak the day after the departure of the Kazakh expedition, which created an atmosphere of unhealthy sports competition. Presidium of the All-Union Section, Chairman Honored Master of Sports Comrade Kuzmin K.K., Department of Alpinism of the Committee Comrade Shafeev R.G. did not take a firm position on the issue of joining the forces of various expeditions to Pobeda Peak and did not check their decision to strengthen the expedition by experienced high-altitude climbers. Inclusion in the expedition, etc. Suslova A.D., Ryspaeva E.M. and Selidzhanova R.M. did not strengthen the composition of the expedition to the extent required. The Kazakh Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, the Organizing Committee of the Expedition and the Republican Mountaineering Section took the wrong position, rejecting proposals to combine the forces of several organizations for a joint assault on Pobeda Peak. As a result, the climbing staff of the expedition was not strong enough to complete the task of climbing this peak. Lead the auxiliary group of master of sports comrade. Semchenko A.A., having received the task to lower the slightly ill Menyailov P.P. from the ridge, had to remain under the Chon-Toren pass to organize an observation and communication point. Instead, he arbitrarily left for the base camp with the whole group. Head of rescue and search operations, Honored Master of Sports comrade Ratsek V.I., heads of rescue teams and groups, etc. Semchenko A.A. and Nagel E.I. from the moment of receiving information about the emergency situation of the Shipilov V.P. group, work was carried out at a slow pace. The danger of avalanches from the slopes of the Ak-Tau peak and the Chon-Toren pass, which allegedly excluded the possibility of the movement of rescue teams, was overestimated by them. A member of the Presidium of the All-Union Section and a member of the expedition of the Uzbek Committee and the Turkestan Military District, comrade Yurasov L.V., knowing about the decision of the Presidium and the Committee's instructions on the order of ascents to Pobeda Peak, did not take measures to prevent the climbers of Uzbekistan from entering the assault prematurely. P R I C A Z Y V A YU:
1
. Conclusions of the commission of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR, which conducted an investigation into the causes and circumstances of the accident with the expedition group of the Kazakh Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, to approve /Appendix No. 1/. 2
. To announce a severe reprimand to the Chairman of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR tov. Artykov A.E., Chairman of the Organizing Committee of the expedition, Deputy. Chairman of the same Committee Comrade Gerzhon S.S. for failure to provide leadership and lack of control over the actions of the expedition. 3
. To announce a severe reprimand to the head of the expedition, Honored Master of Sports Comrade Kolokolnikov E.M. and forbid him to lead mountaineering expeditions in the future for unsatisfactory leadership of the expedition and unauthorized change in the tactical plan for climbing Pobeda Peak. 4
. Announce a severe reprimand, withdraw from the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section Honored Master of Sports Ratsek V.I. - head of the expedition of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Uzbek SSR and the Turkestan Military District. Forbidding him to lead mountaineering expeditions for 3 years for violating the instructions of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR and the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section on the order of priority for climbing Pobeda Peak. 5
. Withdraw from the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section Honored Master of Sports Comrade Yurasov L.V. for failure to take proper measures to prevent violation of the climbing order of the expedition of the Uzbek climbers and the Turkestan Military District. 6
. Deprive the title of master of sports and instructor qualifications from Comrade Semchenko A.A. for violating the order of the head of the expedition, expressed in unauthorized descent to the lower camp, which led to the absence of an auxiliary detachment in the camp closest to the assault group. 7
. Oblige the Administration of Mass Sports and the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section: to hold in January 1956 a scientific and methodological conference on high-altitude ascents, at which to determine the main provisions of the organization and tactics of high-altitude ascents of Soviet climbers. Involve organizations and individuals interested in the development of high-altitude mountaineering to participate in the conference. To approve the conference program /Appendix No. 2/. Submit the materials and proposals of the conference for consideration and approval by the Committee by February 1, 1956. 8
. To oblige the management of Fizkultpromsnab, comrade Mass K.I., to develop new models of mountaineering equipment for high-altitude ascents, taking into account foreign experience, during the first quarter of 1956 by the TsLSI. 9
. Oblige the Department of Educational Institutions and the Scientific and Methodological Council of the Committee to include the following topics in the research plan: but/ “Medical indications and contraindications for mountaineering” b/ “Influence of high-altitude conditions, above 6400 m, on the human body, water-salt regime, diet and oxygen use”. 10
. To allow the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR in 1956 to conduct a 60-day training camp for the training of junior mountaineering instructors with a contingent of 30 people at the ski station. 11
. As an exception, allow the Taldy-Kurgan, East Kazakhstan, South Kazakhstan, Dzhambul and Karaganda regional committees to include climbing equipment in the list of personal property, in accordance with Appendix No. 3. 12
. To oblige the Kazakh, Uzbek, Kyrgyz, Georgian republican committees on physical culture and sports and the Central Council of the DSO to discuss this order together with the climbing asset and develop measures to strengthen educational work among climbers, improve preparatory work to climbing and increasing demands on climbing groups. Note: **** TsLSI - Central Laboratory of Sports Equipment N. Romanov.
Application number 1.
By order of the Chairman of the Committee on Physical
culture and sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR
dated December 14, 1955 No. 459.
CONCLUSION ON THE CIRCUMSTANCES OF THE DEATH OF A GROUP OF PARTICIPANTS OF THE EXPEDITION OF THE COMMITTEE ON PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE KAZAKH SSR AT THE PEAK OF VICTORY
The traces of Usenov U. at 19-00 on August 23 were noticed by the members of the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee Comrade NARYSHKIN. What they were informed about by the group of SEMCHENKO A.A., who arrived at the camp at 4700 m. with the task of going up to establish communication with V.P. SHIPILOV's group. Alpinists N.G. SHEVCHENKO, who set off on skis on the morning of August 24, and Menyaylov P.M. removed USENOV U. from the crack, who reported the above events with the assault group of Comrade SHIPILOV V.P. Kolokolnikova E.M., under the leadership of the Honored Master of Sports Comrade V.I. On August 25, after the transportation of Comrade USENOV, in satisfactory weather, the group of Semchenko A.A., reinforced by the members of the Uzbek expedition, again headed to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier. On August 26, in the morning, the climber Menyailov P.M., who was advancing on skis, discovered a trace in the area of the upper icefall of the Zvezdochka glacier, and soon the corpse of a member of the assault group of the Kazakh expedition, Comrade GONCHARUK A.F., who died, as was later established by a medical examination, from exhaustion and hypothermia. Leaving a corpse on the glacier, on August 26, the Semchenko group Note:****CS VSO - Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society
Sports societies:
- "Spartak" - scientists and employees,
- "Dynamo" - employees of the Ministry of Internal Affairs (MVD)
- Burevestnik - students, teachers
- "Trud", "Enbek" - workers and employees of industrial enterprises
- "Locomotive" - railway employees
- "Harvest" - agricultural workers, etc.
P.S.
In memory of those who died on this expedition, eleven climbers were given the names of a glacier, a pass and a peak in the Sarydzhaz ridge, Central Tien Shan. Administratively, this part of the Tien Shan belongs to the Kazakh SSR. Names were given to Peak Eleven 5437 m., Pass Eleven 5300 m., Glacier Eleven. When creating this album, I used archival materials taken from personal archives:
- Photographs from the archives of Ural Usenov, Viktor Zimin, Mikhail Grudzinsky and Valery Khrishchaty.
- Documents from the archive of Alexander Kolokolnikov (son of Evgeny Kolokolnikov, the head of the expedition) and the archive of Ural Usenov. The album contains two reports, a 1955 report and a more complete 1956 report with analysis, analysis and solutions. From the "fragments" lying and stored in different places, I managed to assemble this "mosaic". In memory of the participants of this tragic expedition. On the analysis and analysis of this tragedy, more than one generation of Soviet climbers was brought up. In 1990, when we passed this place of tragedy, making a traverse of the Pobeda-Khan-Tengri peaks. Valery Khrishchaty told and showed where the 1955 tents were. The USSR national mountaineering team, traversing the Pobeda-Military Topographers peaks in 1988, cleaned up the site of the tragedy. Valery Khrishchaty himself kept diaries of sporting events in which he personally took part. And he was very serious about written documents of this kind. From the stories of Ural Usenov, he knew that Yergali Ryspaev kept a diary of the expedition. And being at the scene of the tragedy, 33 years later, I wanted to find this diary. He warned all team members of his intentions. And after he found the diary in one of the tents, he gave the go-ahead for cleaning. The USSR national mountaineering team, having cut out of the ice, collected all the equipment, clothes, utensils at the site of the tragedy and threw it on the northern wall of the Eastern Pobeda peak, on the territory of the USSR. Work was also done to improve burials. Burials of Cherepanov P.F. - 6600 m. and Ankudimova V.G. – 6250 m were additionally lined with stones. The body of Suslov A.D. could not be found.
Event film:
Central Tien Shan
The Central Tien Shan is the highest and most majestic part of the Tien Shan mountain system. This is a huge "knot" of mountain ranges with a total length of about 500 km from west to east and 300 km from north to south. This is the most picturesque area of the Tien Shan, which is complex system intertwining mountain ranges (Terskey-Ala-Too, Sary-Dzhaz, Kui-Lyu, Tengri-Tag, Enilchek, Kakshaal-Too, Meridional Range, etc.), crowned with majestic peaks of the northernmost of the highest mountains of the planet - Lenin Peak (7134 m ), Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and the fantastic Khan-Tengri Pyramid (7010 m, probably the most beautiful and difficult peak of the Tien Shan to climb). In the north, the Boro-Khoro ridge connects the Tien Shan with the Dzungarian Alatau system. Almost the entire territory of this region is located above 1500 m above sea level, and the mountain peaks are covered with centuries-old snow caps, giving rise to dozens of glaciers, rivers and streams. There are over 8,000 ice fields and glaciers here, the most representative of which are the Southern (about 60 km long) and Northern (35 km) Inylchek (Enilchek, "Little Prince"), Dzhetyoguz-Karakol (22 km), Kaindy (26 km) , Semenov (21 km) and others, whose total area exceeds 8100 sq. km.
The relief near most of the Tien Shan ranges is high-mountainous, strongly dissected by numerous valleys (the northern slopes are cut much more strongly than the southern ones), with highly developed glacial forms. There are many screes on the slopes, glaciers are found, moraines on the glaciers, and numerous alluvial fans at the foot. The valleys of mountain rivers have a large elevation difference and a well-marked stepped profile with flat marshy terraces - "sazes". Many large valleys are surrounded by high-mountain plateaus - "syrts", whose height sometimes reaches 4700 m. On the plateau and uplands of the middle-altitude part of the ridges, high-mountain pastures "jailoo" are spread, covered with forbs and alpine meadows. At altitudes from 1000 to 2000 meters, the foothills of the ridges are bordered by foothill adyrs. There are about 500 lakes here, the largest of which are Song-Kol (Son-Kul - "disappearing lake", 270 sq. km) and Chatyr-Kel (Chatyr-Kul, 153 sq. km).
The Central Tien Shan is a real Mecca of international mountaineering, therefore, it is the neighborhood of the seven-thousanders that is the most studied part of the Tien Shan. The most popular points of attraction for climbers and trekkers are the areas of the Tengri-Tag ridge and Khan-Tengri peak ("Lord of the Sky", 7010 m), Tomur Pass, Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and Inylchek Glacier, the basin of the unique Merzbacher Lake in the eastern part of the mountain systems, Semenov-Tyan-Shansky peak (4875 m), Svobodnaya Korea peak (4740 m) and the famous Crown (4855 m) as part of the Kyrgyz ridge, Communism peak (7505 m) and Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m, this is already Pamir, but few climbers will agree to pass by these great mountains), the ice walls of the Kakshaal-Too (Kokshaal-Tau) ridge, which includes three peaks with a height of more than 6000 m and about a dozen peaks with a height of more than 5000 m, the Ak-Shyirak massif and many other equally attractive regions.
Despite the harsh climate and mountainous landscape, the territory of the Tien Shan has been inhabited since ancient times, as evidenced by numerous stone statues, rock paintings and burial grounds scattered throughout this mountainous country in abundance. Historical and cultural monuments of the medieval period are widely represented - fortified settlements like Koshoy-Korgon, which arose on the basis of nomadic camps, khan's headquarters and on caravan routes from the Ferghana Valley through the Tien Shan. One of the most famous and popular tourist sites in this region is the Tash-Rabat caravanserai (X-XII centuries), built in the hard-to-reach, but picturesque Kara-Koyun gorge. Also widely known are Saimaluu-Tash or Saimaly-Tash ("Patterned Stones") - a whole gallery of rock paintings in the gorge of the same name (more than 107 thousand petroglyphs of the II-III millennium BC) not far from Kazarman, stone sculptures of Kyr-Jol (VI -VIII centuries) on the shores of Lake Song-Kol, petroglyphs of the Chumysh rocks (III-I thousand years BC, Ferghana Range), numerous rock paintings of the Issyk-Kul, Naryn and Talas regions. The ancient caravan route through the Torugart pass (height 3752 m) also deserves attention. This long (total length of about 700 km) route from Central Asia to Chinese Kashgar (Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Okrug) passes through cold gorges and narrow passes of Terksey-Ala-Too, Moldo-Too, At-Bashi and Maidantag, through grandiosely beautiful landscapes and ancient caravan routes of the Great Silk Road.
Western Tien Shan
The mountain system of the Western Tien Shan lies on the very edge of the Tien Shan mountainous country, leaving its spurs to the hot sands of the deserts of Central Asia. The relief of these places is somewhat lower than in the central part of the mountain system, the leveling surfaces are more extensive, and the elevated plateaus are less numerous (Palatkhon, Angren, Ugam and Karzhantau - all in the west of the region). The highest points of the Western Tien Shan are Chatkal Peak (4503 m) in the eponymous range, Manas Peak (4482 m) in Talas Alatau and Mount Baubash-Ata (4427 m) in the western part of the Ferghana Range. Glaciation is insignificant, the snow line runs along the heights of 3600-3800 m on the northern slopes and 3800-4000 m on the southern ones. The rivers of the Western Tien Shan (Angren, Akbulak, Itokar, Karaunkur, Koksu, Maidantal, Mayli-Suu, Naryn, Oygaing, Padysha-Ata, Pskem, Sandalash, Ugam, Chatkal and others) are rapids, have glacial and snow nutrition, and flow along narrow gorges (in the upper reaches), in the middle reaches they usually have wide valleys, but in the lower reaches they again form canyon forms. It is simply difficult to find better places for rafting and rafting than local rivers.
The vegetation of the Western Tien Shan, despite the low amount of precipitation falling here, is quite diverse - steppes and deciduous forests in the lower belt, shrubs and meadows in the middle, as well as alpine meadows and high mountain wastelands closer to the peaks. There are about 370 species of animals and about 1200 species of higher plants, and the complex relief leads to the formation of numerous local ecocenoses inhabited by unique species of plants and animals. Therefore, the mountainous regions of the Western Tien Shan, although they are mastered by tourists to a much lesser extent than the eastern regions, have their own undoubted set of attractions. The level of difficulty of the hikes conducted here is much lower, so less trained tourists can take part in them, and their relatively short length makes it even easier to pass. The easiest routes are laid through the ridges of Keksuisky, Kuraminsky, Sargardon-Kumbel, Ugamsky and Chatkalsky. Somewhat more difficult, II-III categories, go through the Talas Alatau, Pskem and Maidantal (Maidantag) ridges, along the mountains of Baubash-Ata, Isfan-Jailau, Kekirim-Tau (Fergana Range), and the most difficult routes pass in the same regions, capturing the surroundings of the Chatkal (4503 m), Manas (4482 m) and Kattakumbel (3950 m) and Babayob (3769 m) peaks, since the relief here is so diverse that it allows you to pass sections of all levels of complexity within the same route.
The most favorable time for trekking in the mountains of the Western Tien Shan is from the end of April to the end of October, but already in March-May great amount both organized groups and "wild" tourists.
Kyrgyz, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Kungei-Alatau, Terskey-Ala-Too. The Middle Tien Shan includes the Pskemsky, Chatkalsky, Kuraminsky, Ferghana, etc. ridges, and the Southern Tien Shan, divided by the last ridge into eastern and western parts: Nuratau, Turkestan, Zeravshan, Gissar, Alai (in the west) and At- Bashi, Kakshaal-Too (in the east). Mountain ranges have an average height of 3000-4000 m and are dissected by valleys through which large rivers flow: Pskem, Chatkal, Syrdarya, Zeravshan, Surkhob, Naryn, Tekes, etc. There are numerous glaciers and large centers of glaciation - the Khan-Tengri mountain junction, Pobeda Peak, Alai Range. There are many large lakes: Issyk-Kul (area 6236 km 2, according to other sources - 6330 km 2, height above sea level 1608 m), Song-Kol, Chatyr-Kol, Bagramkul, Turfanskoye, etc. Belt landscape zonality is well expressed. The climate is sharply continental, arid. The amount of precipitation increases with height and in the glacial-nival belt is 1600 mm/year. In the internal (intermountain) depressions, 200-400 mm of precipitation falls annually. Due to the significant dryness of the climate, the snow line in the Tien Shan is located at an altitude of 3600-3800 m, and in the Central Tien Shan even at an altitude of 4200-4500 m.
Geological structure and minerals. The Tien Shan is part of the Ural-Mongolian (Ural-Okhotsk) folded geosynclinal belt. In the north, folded structures have a northwestern and sublatitudinal strike, and in the south, sublatitudinal. After the Hercynian folding, most of the Tien Shan was peneplanated. Mountain building, which created the modern alpine relief, began in the Oligocene and was especially evident in the Pliocene and Anthropogenic. Differentiated tectonic movements led to the formation of a stepped relief, powerful erosion, the development of deep river valleys, and the emergence of glaciation centers (see map).
According to the features of the geological structure, the Tien Shan is divided into Northern, Middle and Southern. The first is a Caledonian folded structure and is separated by a deep tectonic seam - the suture (the so-called "Nikolaev line") from the younger systems of the Middle and Southern Tien Shan. The Southern Tien Shan is a Hercynian structure, while the Middle Tien Shan occupies an intermediate position.
The northern (Caledonian) Tien Shan includes the North Kirghiz zone superimposed on the eastern part of the Kokchetav-Muyunkum massif, which was heavily reworked in the Caledonian era. The Early Precambrian basement of this zone is exposed in the Makbal horst and composes the buried massifs: Muyunkum and Issyk-Kul, composed of Archean gneiss complexes and linear folded zones of the Early Proterozoic. On this folded basement in the Middle Riphean, troughs were formed, filled with terrigenous-carbonate strata, overlain with unconformity by basic volcanic rocks and siliceous schists of the Upper Riphean (Terskey series). The Vendian deposits, represented by terrigenous rocks (), sharply unconformably overlap the Riphean strata. To the south, Vendoctoran-Early Cambrian and Middle Cambrian-Ordovician island-arc volcanic rocks and marginal-marine terrigenous sequences are widespread. At the end of the Ordovician and at the end of the Silurian - Early-Middle Devonian, uplifts and deformations began in the north. The introduction of huge granite intrusives, widely developed in the Kirghiz zone, dates back to the same time. In the Hercynian stage, in the setting of blocky differentiated movements, terrestrial volcanic rocks, red rocks, and terrigenous-carbonate deposits 2–4 km thick accumulated in different places.
The median Tien Shan is bounded in the north by the "Nikolaev line", and in the southwest by the Beltau-Kurama volcanic belt and the eastern continuation of the Syrdarya massif, on which this zone is partially superimposed. To the east of the Thalasso-Fergana fault, the Middle Tien Shan narrows and is cut off by the At-Bashyn fault. The middle Tien Shan is composed of Vendian tillite-like conglomerates, carbonate deposits and siliceous-argillaceous vanadium-bearing shales (up to 3 km), Ordovician carbonate-terrigenous deposits (up to 2.5 km). The Silurian, represented by a continental molasse with volcanics, is developed only in the Chatkal Range. On this Caledonian complex unconformably lies the continental variegated clastic sequence of the Middle Devonian (1.5 km), marine sandy-conglomerate and carbonate-argillaceous deposits of the upper (3.5 km). In the east of the zone, carbonate-terrigenous Lower Carboniferous (3 km) and siliceous-argillaceous Middle Carboniferous (2 km) are developed. The Beltau-Kuramin volcanic belt rests on Riphean metamorphites and carbonate-terrigenous deposits (more than 5 km) at the top with basalts (Lower Carboniferous). Above is a thick (up to 6 km) continental sequence of basalts, andesites, dacites and granitoids comagmatic to them, belonging to the Middle-Upper Carboniferous. Perm is represented by rough continental molasses and rhyolitic ignimbrites, tuffs and lavas. The deposits of the Hercynian complex are located weaker than the Caledonian. To the east of the Thalasso-Fergana fault, the Middle Tien Shan includes the Dzhetymtau, Moldo-Too and Naryn-Too ranges, in which the Hercynian complex forms synclinoria, and the Caledonian one acts in uplifts.
The Southern Tien Shan extends in a latitudinal direction, narrowing in the east, and is divided into three parts: western (Kyzylkum), central (Gissaro-Alai) and eastern (At-Bashy-Kakshaal). From the south, the fold systems of the Southern Tien Shan are limited by the Afghan-Tajik and Tarim Precambrian massifs. In the central part, which has a width of up to 200 km, a number of zones are distinguished from the north and south with different types of section: the Northern, Kapa-Chatyr, South Fergana, to the south - the Turkestan-Alai and Zeravshan-Gissar zones. From the south, the last zone is bounded by the South Gissar volcanic belt. To the south, Precambrian rocks of the Afghan-Tajik massif are exposed. The structure of the Southern Tien Shan is characterized by the wide development of Hercynian thrusts and covers of southern vergence. The formation of the system due to the destruction of the Precambrian continental crust dates back to the beginning of the Paleozoic, as evidenced by the presence of ophiolites of this age. In the Silurian - the 1st half of the Carboniferous, limestones accumulated on massifs with continental crust, and clays and flysch accumulated on oceanic-type crust. The thickness of the deposits reached 8 km. The beginning of deformations refers to the middle of the Middle Carboniferous, as evidenced by thick olistostromes and gravitational mantles. Uplifts intensified at the end of the Carboniferous and Permian. All deposits are intruded by granites. To the east, all zones narrow, and in the south they border on the Tarim massif.
In the Mesozoic and Cenozoic, the Northern and Middle Tien Shan developed somewhat differently from the Southern Tien Shan. In the Northern Tien Shan, in the Triassic-Eocene, there was a platform with a thin cover of continental clastic deposits that filled a number of depressions. In the Jurassic, movements became more active, and from the Oligocene the rate of tectonic movements increased sharply and the range of movements in the Pliocene was 8-10 km. Along with powerful mountain ranges, large intermountain depressions with coarse molasses and foothill troughs (Frunzensky, Iliysky, Alakolsky) also developed. The southern Tien Shan was peneplanated at the beginning of the Mesozoic, but in the late Triassic - early Jurassic, near-fault depressions were formed - the East and South Fergana and others. In the first of them, a three-kilometer stratum of continental coal-bearing deposits was deposited, which in the late Jurassic was subjected to folding. In the Cretaceous and Early Paleogene, marine, continental and lagoonal deposits (up to 2-3 km) accumulated, preserved within the Fergana and Tajik depressions. From the late Oligocene, the uplift of the region began, sharply intensifying from the Pliocene and forming the modern high-mountain relief and depressions filled with molasse up to 6 km. In the Pleistocene, new, rather intense fold-thrust deformations appeared, associated with the convergence of the Hindustan and Eurasian lithospheric plates. Thus, a vast mountainous country with high seismicity was formed.
The western (Kyzylkum) part of the Southern Tien Shan is the widest (up to 300-3500 km) and analogues of all zones of the central part of the Southern Tien Shan are developed within its boundaries. In the west, the hercynides of the Southern Tien Shan are cut off by a meridional fault, along which the structures of the Urals and the Southern Tien Shan meet at the end.
History of development mineral resources . The first evidence of the use of flint for the manufacture of tools dates back to the early Paleolithic (700-300 thousand years ago). In the area of camps in Karatau, in the Central Tien Shan (valley of the river On-Archa), on Lake Issyk-Kul (Boz-Barmak), similarities of mine workings for the extraction of flints were found. Middle Paleolithic quarries are known near the sites of Khodja-Gor, Kapchagai, Togor, and others, and those of the Late Paleolithic are known in Kapchagai. 5-3 thousand years ago, in the late Neolithic era, the development of natural paints began: ocher, manganese peroxide, etc., with which rock paintings were made in the Teke-Sekirik caves near the city of Naryn and Ak-Chunkur on the Sary-Jaz River. At the same time, clay began to be mined for making dishes.
In the 2nd millennium BC, in the era of bronze and copper, the development of ores of copper, lead, tin, zinc, as well as gold and silver begins. Stone casting molds were used to produce metal castings. By this time, there are traces of mining in the form of quarries, shallow mines and adits in the places of settlements - Boz-Tepe, Chim-bai, Kapa-Kochkor on the Chu, Talas and Naryn rivers. At the beginning of the 1st millennium BC. a reduction in the extraction of tin and copper began, which is associated with the development of iron smelting, the extraction of ores of which was carried out in the Talas ridge, in the foothill regions of the Fergana depression. Slave-owning relations that developed in Central Asia starting from the middle of the 1st millennium BC did not slow down the development of mining, but there is very little data about this era. Feudalism, which replaced in the 1st millennium AD. The slave system, in connection with the needs of agriculture, urban crafts and military needs, contributed to an increase in mining. In the historical chronicles of that time, iron mining is reported in the Western Tien Shan, where in many points of the Chirchik river basin, in the Kuraminsky mountains (Turganly, At-Kulak, Shah-Adam-Bulak, Kan-Tam, etc.), dumps of iron ore slags are known and the remains of ancient workings, as well as in the area of Lake Issyk-Kul (Koysary), where in the settlement of the 7th-12th centuries. a blacksmith's tool made from local raw materials was found. In the same era, gold was mined (Kumainak in the valley of the Angren River) and a lot of silver was mined in the western spurs of the Tien Shan (Kukhi-Sim mine). The lead mined along the way was used to make mineral paints and household products. Copper ores were developed in the valley of the Chu River, in the regions of Aksu and Kucha (eastern Tien Shan), Ak-Tash (Kyrgyz Range), Almalyk (Kuramin Range), where about 500 ancient workings with a volume of up to 20,000 m 3 are known. Mining developments were in the form of quarries and adits up to 30 m long, with side pockets Mushketov, D. I. Mushketov, N. G. Kassin, and also V. N. Weber, who in 1913 gave the first information about the patterns of distribution of minerals. After the Great October Revolution, prominent Soviet geologists A. E. Fersman, D. V. Nalivkin, D. I. Shcherbakov led the work on the integrated development of the natural resources of the Tien Shan. V. A. Nikolaev, A. V. Peive, N. M. Sinitsyn, Kh. M. Abdullaev, A. E. Dovzhikov, G. S. Porshnyakov, V. N. Ognev, D. P. Rezvoy, V. G. Korolev, V. S. Burtman and others. in Art. about the republics: Kyrgyz CCP, Tajik CCP, Uzbek CCP.
In the summer, the combined team of the MAI Tourist Club and the State Customs Committee “Citadel” (Brest) visited the mountains of the eastern part of the Central Tien Shan. Despite the fact that not all of the initial plans were realized, the campaign was a success. We got acquainted and fully imbued with the area, passed several beautiful passes and climbed the three highest peaks of the Tien Shan. See below for a photo report of our trip.
I'll tell you a little about what we wanted and what happened to go through. The acclimatization stage went according to plan. It included the passage of two survey passes of the Seven Muscovites (1B, 4130) and Chontash (2B, 4570) and the first ascent to the summit of Explorers of the Tien Shan (4490). Then, having reached the South Inylchek glacier, we climbed up it and through the Komsomolets glacier climbed out to the Schmidt Plateau pass (3B, 5270), which had not been visited for a long time. From its saddle we passed the traverse of the untrodden peak 5650 and, ahead of schedule, descended through the Proletarsky tourist glacier to MAL on South Inylchek.
At the next stage, we planned to pass three high-altitude traverses. But due to problems with my back and the paramount desire of the team to climb the seven-thousanders, they refused to continue the planned route. Later we switched to separate ascents in the upper reaches of the Southern Inylchek, sometimes for convenience dividing into subgroups. As a result, through the Razorvanny glacier we climbed the Eastern Saddle of Khan-Tengri (5800 m) and made an attempt to climb into. Tent Western (6511), climbed Khan-Tengri (7010) and Pobeda (7439), climbed the western peak of the peak of Military Topographers (6815).
The way from the base camp to the Semenovsky glacier takes 2.5 - 3 hours. The tents of the first camp are not located directly at the confluence with the South Inylchek, but a little lower, hiding from large avalanches from Khan Tengri and Chapaev Peak behind a rocky spur.
Feeling some euphoria from going on the route, we got carried away and talked until late in the evening. The degree in the blood also interfered with sleep. As a result, we passed out at ten, and at midnight got up for the early passage of a narrow and dangerous section between the peaks of Chapaev and Khan-Tengri, popularly called the bottle.
Evening snow covered all traces. The ascent began almost in the dark. The flashlight snatched out only 50 meters of the glacier in front of my feet. We went straight up, focusing on the silhouettes of large mountains. I was on Khan Tengri 8 years ago, but now everything has changed. Instead of deep snow - firn, powdered with snow. Yes, and we went down for the most part along the opposite side.
Before the beginning of the dangerous place we were overtaken by a bunch. One of the men in its composition was on Khan last year and in general terms he imagined where the standard ascent path passes.
The surrounding landscape brightened, and the mountains woke up.
On the way to the neck of the bottle from the Chapaev Peak, an avalanche began, which went lower, but kept us in suspense and covered us with snow dust.
A little higher we saw a tent with a crazy man who decided to put it in such a place.
Tent - dot in the center of the frame
Someone is coming down
Camp 5300 is located a little above the icefall of the Semenovsky glacier. Considering yesterday's gatherings, we could not deny ourselves the desire to boil tea there and take a nap for an hour.
The upper reaches of the Southern Inylchek and the peak of the Military Topographers (6873)
The rest cheered us up a little and we climbed relatively fresh into the bergschrund under the Western Saddle of Khan-Tengri. Here, at an altitude of 5800, the tents of the assault camp are located. The further route along the western ridge of Khan-Tengri is almost entirely fixed with stationary railings. There are also small sites for spending the night at 6350 (for one tent), 6400 (for two tents), at 6600 (for 1 tent), near the summit.
Compared to 2009, now most of the tents at 5800 are located in a wide covered berg under the saddle, and caves are being torn off there. It's less windy and safer. 8 years ago, from the saddle to the north, almost from under our feet, a giant cornice flew off, breaking off right along the path with poles.
A simple ascent to Khan Tengri could not give normal acclimatization. Therefore, we decided to climb with bivouac equipment to 6400, set up a tent, go to the top, and then descend and spend the night. Maybe in terms of load, such a plan was not entirely ideal, since it would be more competent to spend the night at 6400 first, and then climb the mountain the next day. But we were afraid of the worsening weather that the forecast promised. We decided to make the most of our first outing.
We packed up the camp and at about 3 o'clock in the morning we went up from 5800. I was lucky at the start to slip through a group of foreign climbers, and Misha stood behind them and later bypassed them one by one. On the way to 6400 I overtook a few people, whom I didn’t see more on the way to the top and on the descent, they probably turned back.
In 3 hours I climbed to the site at 6400, where one tent was already standing. The weather was nasty, visibility was limited, and a gusty wind was blowing. Therefore, I did not dare to set up our tent alone and started leveling and completing the site. Together with Misha, who soon came up, we set up and stretched out a tent, in which we left our belongings and equipment.
It must be said that climbing Khan-Tengri along the classic route from the Western Saddle is not quite sporty. The almost continuous thread of the railing allows you to climb and descend from the top in almost any weather. Modern equipment reliably protects even from strong winds, and the lack of visibility deprives you of pleasure, but does not interfere with the ascent. So we, of course, remembering the “cold - wind” from Vladimir Stetsenko, decided that there was no reason not to go upstairs.
If up to 6400 even with a backpack I felt quite fresh, then continuing the ascent already light, I noticed that the pace had dropped. Misha, on the contrary, added and went a couple of pitches ahead. I tried to find motivation to climb to the top, where I had already been before, along a fixed route and in the absence of visibility. I persuaded myself to continue climbing for the sake of further acclimatization. In front of the “trough” I caught up with Misha, who ran into a line on the railing.
We clearly lacked acclimatization, since the previous climb was a traverse of the Bagpipe peak (5650) with an overnight stay at 5300. I looked at the people in front, going noticeably slower and still resisting and continuing to move up. And I understood that if they endure, then I can endure a little.
We went to the top together with the people of Alma-Ata. The climb from 6400 took about 5 hours. Physically and psychologically, he was given hard. After a couple of weeks, we went to Pobeda easier and with much more pleasure. I dragged a heavy DSLR upstairs for nothing, taking only a couple of shots. We never saw the northern Inylchek behind the clouds.
Misha on top
We went down to the tent at 6400, where we had lunch and settled down to rest. The forecast was predicted to be negative, but we did not deny ourselves a high overnight stay.
We woke up at one in the morning and hurried down. Having passed the bottle before sunrise, at 5 am we were at South Inylchek.
On the left is Pogrebetsky Peak (6527)
Meanwhile, our main team climbed the East Saddle of Khan-Tengri through the icefall of the Razorvanny glacier. And having made an attempt to climb the Western Tent, in bad weather, she was forced to turn around and go down to the camp on the saddle. And there was no time left for a second attempt, as the deadline for our meeting in MAL was running out.
Vazha Pshavela (6918) and Nehru (6742)
Khan Tengri (6995)
Having reunited with the team, they began to jointly build further plans. It became clear that we no longer had time to continue the originally planned route and in the end go to Pobeda. As a result, we decided that it would be easier and more interesting to go to individual peaks. In addition, at that moment there was still hope for a possible traverse of the Victory.
The guys who were not on Khan decided to go there. And Misha and I were joined by Vanya, who was already a snow leopard, and we planned a walk to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier.
Here, in the Inylchek region, the main focus is on Khan Tengri. This year, more than a hundred people climbed from the south alone. Another part of the people is trying to climb the Pobeda Peak. The rest of the interesting and easily accessible peaks, which have a not so attractive height, are deprived of attention. Climbers visited many six-thousanders of the Meridional Ridge 1-2 times. In the area of the glaciers Komsomolets, Shokalsky, Putevodny and other glaciers there are a lot of untrodden five-thousanders. The third highest peak of the Tien Shan - the peak of the Military Topographers (6873 m) is climbed extremely rarely, 1-2 groups in 5 years.
Since we didn’t have any descriptions, we decided with our subgroup to go up to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka and already there decide what to do next. They planned to choose between Military Topographers and Eastern Victory, depending on what they saw.
The path to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka leads along a marked path to the icefall at the turn of the glacier. Then it passes by the first camp of Pobeda under the pedestal of the Abalakov route and further up under the walls of Eastern Pobeda.
Abalakov's route goes from left to right
In the center of the frame, the western peak of the peak of the Military Topographers
There are many lakes in the central part of Zvezdochka. The glacier is broken not strongly. A small icefall opposite the spur of Shipilov Peak goes along the right side of the glacier. In order not to fall through, after dinner, we put on snowshoes and went further in them.
Western Summit of Military Topographers Peak (6815)
Avalanche from the Victory balcony. To the right is Zhuravlev's route
The rocky walls of the Eastern Victory impress with their steepness and scale. The sun practically does not illuminate them. Of the four routes laid here, none is repeated.
About 4 kilometers did not reach the Chonteren pass, located between the Eastern Victory and the Military Topographers the day before. In the morning Misha complained of being unwell. Probably not fully recovered after Khan Tengri, and yesterday at 9 o'clock was not easy. We approached the pass take-off, but did not rise higher. Since they considered that the rest will be much more productive below.
The next day, the condition and mood is excellent. Chonteren climbed almost on foot, hanging 50 meters of railings at the top of the takeoff. From the Chinese side, too, there are no big difficulties. Therefore, the tourist category of the pass 3B is very conditional.
Shipilov Peak (6201)
The advantage of the route to the summit of Eastern Pobeda (6762 m) is that from the saddle of the pass (5500 m) it is light and with the current state of snow it takes a day. We, having a certain margin of time, decide to go to the peak of the Military Topographers located further.
Behind the crest to Eastern Pobeda
A narrow cornice ridge goes straight from the pass in the direction of the peak of the Military Topographers. Walk along it in a bundle small group pure pleasure.
Above the ridge expands, turning into a snowy slope, which leads to a small plateau. On the edge of the plateau there is a group of picturesque ice seracs. Vanya dubbed them Julie's, since in Anatoly's reports he often saw similar landforms. Large pieces of ice break off the edge of the plateau and gradually slide into the abyss. While lunch was being prepared, we had time to walk and climb a little.
Victory Array
Walls of Military Topographers Peak
Between the seracs is Pobeda Peak
The camp was set up at an altitude of 6050 under the slopes leading to the western ridge of the Military Topographers. While the guys were setting up the tent, I managed to trail up and take some pictures of the mountain. The entire path of the traverse of Valery Khrishchaty's team from Pobeda to Khan opened up before my eyes.
Peaks of the legendary traverse in one panorama
Panorama from Pobeda to Khan
The plans to traverse the summit, which had arisen, were postponed until future trips, since Misha, motivating the decision by the preservation of strength for the Victory, refused to accompany us on the ascent.
In the morning, new adventures awaited us. About 5 o'clock shook a couple of times. As it turned out later, these were the echoes of a seven-magnitude Chinese earthquake. Where there was a small bergschrund the day before, a 3-meter ice wall appeared. Our entire plateau sank, deep ice funnels formed on the slope. There have been landslides here and there. As the guys from our second subgroup, who were descending from Khan at that moment, later said, avalanches descended from Chapaev and Khan Tengri at the same time, a cloud of dust flew to Inylchek. And just a few minutes before that, they managed to leave the Semenovsky glacier around the corner.
During the evening reconnaissance, the first rock gendarme of the western ridge of the Military Topographers seemed rather difficult. For its passage it would be necessary to hang a railing. Therefore, we decided to climb the ridge in a new way, leaving already above the gendarme.
South view
The amount of snow on the slopes was decent. Sometimes there were spots of crust, but mostly we had to trail and not forget about the avalanche danger. It went hard. Initially, having taken with them an additional rope and some kind of rock equipment, they left it all on the shelf. Because we realized that if we encounter serious technical difficulties, then in the current state we will not make it to the top. And everything that is easier, we will climb in a bunch.
The upper reaches of the South Inylchek
From the place of exit to the ridge under the rocky rise to the second gendarme there is a long section with cornices. We were more embarrassed not by them, but by the real chances to leave with an avalanche on the sheer cliffs of the Chinese side. At some point, they even tied up the entire length of the rope in order to be able to alternately release each other and tuck it behind protruding stones.
The weather didn't help the climb, but it didn't make us turn around either. Hoods and windproof masks saved from the gusty wind. Having passed the cornices, we approached the rocky gendarme. The lower part was climbed. I climbed higher, tensing a little in the fireplace, and threw off the rope to Vanya.
Above the gendarme, the crest expands and becomes simple. But the wind and deep snow made it difficult to go. We climbed to the Western summit of the Military Topographers (6815 m) in the absence of visibility. In the tour, they found a note from Kirikov-Oleynik-Parshin dated 2005, who, in turn, removed the note from Sergey Lavrov from 1999.
According to the navigator, there were still 400 meters and 60 in height to the Main Peak, but there were no thoughts of going there without visibility.
It cleared up on the descent
We went down to camp 6050, where Misha met us with an awesome borscht, by 18:30 in the evening.
We got up early in the morning, went down to Zvezdochka and ran to the base camp, where we were already met by the guys who had successfully climbed Khan Tengri.
In the evening, an Iranian woman came to talk to us, which the guys actually saved on the Khan. According to stories, during an overnight stay at 6400, at 8 pm, she went down to the ledge to their tents and remained seated. The girl no longer had the strength to continue the descent. Initially, she refused the invitation to go into the tent, as well as the offer of tea. But in the end, they put her in a sleeping bag, warmed her, gave her a drink, and sent her downstairs in a normal condition in the morning.
After resting for a couple of days, they began to gather for the Victory. The weather is over by now. After August 10, not heavy but frequent snowfalls began, and winds blew up above. We understood that there could be no eternal bad weather and a window would definitely appear, we only needed to guess the exit to Vazha Pshavela by this moment. And from there to the top day. Part of the team also did not want to give up the idea of a traverse so easily, so they took an additional arc tent upstairs, all together intending to live in a tent.
There are seven of us left on the team. Zhenya flew to work after trying to climb the Western Tent, and Maxim after climbing Khan Tengri. And three guys from Novosibirsk and Moscow joined us. We decided to go up the mountain autonomously, but climb together, trying to help each other.
Dmitry Grekov gave us a radio station and further helped by maintaining and reporting the current weather forecast. This attitude was very pleasant, especially since we were not Ak-Sai's clients.
While the weather was on the Tien Shan, the people, believing that the time had not come, acclimatized on the Khan, rested and talked in the base camp. As a result, when everyone was ready to go up, the weather turned off. Before us, three people climbed through Vazha, who unsealed the mountain this season, and four guys from the Novosibirsk team passed the traverse, climbing the Zhuravlev route and descending the classic.
We went upstairs on August 14th, believing that just in time for the possible window on the 18th-19th, we would row up to Vazha.
The first obstacle on the way to the summit is the icefall of the Wild Pass. Unlike the further route, every year the first climbers on the mountain hang it with new railings. The icefall itself is normal. Above a steep step in one and a half ropes, everything is walked on foot. Dangerous approach under the hanging dumps and ice at the beginning of the railing. Therefore, it is advisable to pass the icefall either early in the morning or in the late afternoon, when the peak of solar activity is behind.
Leaving the base camp after lunch, we stopped for the night about a kilometer from the icefall. It is scary to stop closer because of possible avalanches and landslides from the slopes of Pobeda.
Having passed the icefall in the morning, we went through the snowy fields to a small trough on the Dikiy pass. While dinner was being prepared, the stragglers approached. Since the weather was not promised for tomorrow, the goal on this day is to climb to the caves at 5800, in order to comfortably wait for it to improve there.
View of the Western Saddle of Khan Tengri
Exit to the Wild
The slopes above the Wild are gentle, but overloaded with snow and avalanches. Plots of deep snow alternate with a firn board. Put on beepers and snowshoes. Trying not to cut the slope, we went up, breaking the path.
In the center of the frame we passed the traverse of the top of the Bagpipe (5650)
According to the information we have, two caves were dug on the slopes for three and six people. Coming to the bottom of them at an altitude of 5700, as it later turned out to be less, they expanded it to seven people. Three guys from the parallel group went to spend the night higher.
By evening the weather had deteriorated and it was very cold. While expanding our cave, we met a team of people descending from above. The weather prevented them from going to the top. To the question: “Where are you from?”, Ilya, who led the group, replied: “From hell!”.
At night, they dug up the entrance to the cave a couple of times. The whole next day the revenge continued. Our walkie-talkie quickly sat down. Left without weather and without a forecast, they began to try to get information by satellite phone. In response to an SMS with a request, one of our friends wrote that heavy rains were expected at Pobeda, another sent a long text in English, copied from the site, saying that everything would be very bad, but not without specifics. We were also interested in specific figures for cloudiness, precipitation and wind strength.
Seeing what was happening on the street, and having no perspective, the idea of a traverse of the summit was finally abandoned, switching to a radial ascent. Extra things and an additional tent were left in the cave and closer to dinner on August 17, when it was a little more visible, we went upstairs.
There are several rocky belts on the ridge of Vazha from 5800 to peak 6918. The first one is at altitudes of 5800 - 6000, the second one is 6100 - 6250 and a couple of small areas above 6400. traditional places under the tent there is at 6100 under the protection of small stones, and at 6400. There are no places protected from the wind. In case of heavy snowfalls, the rocks at 6100 and 6400 do not fully protect against avalanches either. In fact, a small arc tent can be put up almost everywhere, breaking off part of the slope. You will have to tinker with the platform for the tent.
The rocky sections of the ridge are fixed with railings. But they are not updated and only sometimes they are duplicated by the forces of enthusiasts with newer ropes. In some places the rope is broken or without braid. The rocks are simple, so it is better to climb on your own, insuring yourself with a jumar.
In the evening we went to the sites at 6400. Three guys walking in parallel found a ready place for their arc redfox. We began to expand the site next to our large tent. After some time, they came across a human body, as it turned out later, perhaps it was Alexander Popov, who was covered here in 2012 by an avalanche. Having dug it with snow, they went 50 meters to the side and dug a place on the slope.
We are building a site at 6400
The bodies of those who died at the Victory are a little tense. It is clear that there is simply no strength and opportunity to go down. But it's one thing when a person is wrapped in an awning and a tent and conditionally buried away from the path. Another, when at 7250, he just sits in the trough under the gendarme dead man. It is not so difficult to wrap it in an awning, but you need to know about it in advance and have an awning with you. On a ridge covered with fir, you can’t just bury it in the snow and you won’t take off your puff.
Behind the peak of Nehru
On the borders of the five countries of Central Asia, there are beautiful and majestic mountains - the Tien Shan. On the mainland of Eurasia, they are second only to the Himalayas and the Pamirs, and are also one of the largest and most extensive Asian mountain systems. The heavenly mountains are rich not only in minerals, but also in interesting geographical facts. The description of any object is built from many points and important nuances, but only a complete coverage of all directions will help to create a full-fledged geographical image. But let's not rush, but dwell on each section in detail.
Figures and Facts: Everything you need to know about the Celestial Mountains
The name Tien Shan has Turkic roots, because the peoples of this particular language group have inhabited this territory since time immemorial and still live in this region. If translated literally, then the toponym will sound like Heavenly Mountains or Divine Mountains. The explanation for this is very simple, the Turks from time immemorial worshiped the sky, and if you look at the mountains, you get the impression that with their peaks they reach the very clouds, most likely that is why the geographical object got its name. And now, some more facts about the Tien Shan.
- What usually begins the description of any object? Of course, with numbers. The length of the Tien Shan mountains is more than two and a half thousand kilometers. Believe me, this is a pretty impressive number. By comparison, the territory of Kazakhstan extends for 3,000 kilometers, while Russia stretches for 4,000 kilometers from north to south. Imagine these objects and appreciate the scale of these mountains.
- The height of the Tien Shan mountains reaches 7000 meters. There are 30 peaks in the system with a height of more than 6 kilometers, while Africa and Europe cannot boast of any such mountain.
- Separately, I would like to highlight the highest point of the Heavenly Mountains. Geographically, it is located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of China. There is a very long debate around this issue, and neither side wants to concede. The highest peak of the Tien Shan Mountains is a ridge with a triumphant name - Pobeda Peak. The height of the object is 7439 meters.
Location of one of the largest mountain systems in Central Asia
If we move the mountain system to political map, then the object will fall on the territory of five states. More than 70% of the mountains are located on the territory of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and China. The rest falls on Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. But the highest points and massive ridges are located in the northern part. If we consider geographical position Tien Shan mountains from the regional side, then it will be the central part of the Asian continent.
Geographical zoning and relief
The territory of the mountains can be conditionally divided into five orographic regions. Each is distinguished by a peculiar relief and structure of the ridges. Pay attention to the photo of the Tien Shan mountains, which is located above. Agree, the grandeur and stateliness of these mountains are admirable. And now, let's take a closer look at the zoning of the system:
- Northern Tien Shan. This part is almost completely located on the territory of Kazakhstan. The main ranges are Zailiysky and Kungei Alatau. These mountains are characterized by an average height (no more than 4000 m) and a strong indentation of the relief. There are many small rivers in the region, which originate from glacial peaks. The region also includes the Ketmen Ridge, Kazakhstan shares it with Kyrgyzstan. On the territory of the latter, there is another ridge of the northern part - the Kyrgyz Alatau.
- Eastern Tien Shan. Of the largest parts of the mountain system, one can distinguish: Borohoro, Bogdo-Ula, as well as medium and small ranges: Iren-Khabyrga and Sarmin-Ula. The entire eastern part of the Heavenly Mountains is located on the territory of China, mainly where the places of permanent settlement of the Uighurs are located, it is from this local dialect that the ridges got their names.
- Western Tien Shan. This orographic unit occupies the territories of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. The largest is the Karatau ridge, and then comes the Talas Alatau, which got its name from the river of the same name. These parts of the Tien Shan mountains are rather low, the relief drops to 2000 meters. This is because this is a more ancient region, the territory of which was not subjected to repeated mountain building. Thus, the destructive power of exogenous factors has done its job.
- Southwestern Tien Shan. This region is located in Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. In fact, this is the lowest part of the mountains, which consists of the Fregan Range, framing the valley of the same name.
- Central Tien Shan. This is the highest part of the mountain system. Its ranges occupy the territory of China, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. It is in this part that almost all six-thousanders are located.
"Gloomy Giant" - the highest point of the Heavenly Mountains
As mentioned earlier, the highest point of the Tien Shan mountains is called Victory Peak. It is easy to guess that the toponym got its name in honor of a significant event - the victory of the USSR in the most difficult and bloody war of the 20th century. Officially, the mountain is located in Kyrgyzstan, near the border with China, not far from the autonomy of the Uighurs. However, for a long time, the Chinese side did not want to recognize that the object belonged to the Kyrgyz, and even after documenting the fact, it continues to look for ways to take possession of the desired peak.
This object is very popular with climbers, it is included in the list of five seven-thousanders that must be conquered to receive the title of "Snow Leopard". Near the mountain, only 16 kilometers to the southwest, is the second highest peak of the Divine Mountains. We are talking about Khan Tengri - the highest point of the Republic of Kazakhstan. Its height is only slightly short of seven kilometers and is 6995 meters.
Age-old history of rocks: geology and structure
In the place where the Tien Shan mountains are located, there is an ancient belt of increased endogenous activity, these zones are also called geosynclines. Since the system has a fairly decent height, this suggests that it was subjected to secondary uplift, although it has a rather ancient origin. Studies show that the base of the Heavenly Mountains is composed of Precambrian and Lower Paleozoic rocks. The strata of the mountains were subjected to long-term deformations and the impact of endogenous forces, which is why the minerals are represented by metamorphosed gneisses, sandstones and typical limestone and shale.
Since most of this region was flooded in the Mesozoic, the mountain valleys are covered with lake-type deposits (sandstone and clay). The activity of glaciers also did not pass without a trace, moraine deposits stretch from the highest peaks of the Tien Shan mountains and reach the very border of the snow line.
The repeated uplift of the mountains in the Neogene had a very significant effect on their geological structure; relatively "young" rocks of the volcanic type are found in the parent basement. It is these inclusions that are mineral and metal minerals, which are very rich in the Divine Mountains.
The lowest part of the Tien Shan, which is located in the south, has been exposed to exogenous agents for thousands of years: the sun, winds, glaciers, temperature fluctuations, water during flooding. All this could not but affect the structure of the rocks, nature had severely battered their slopes and "exposed" the mountains to the very parent rock. The complex geological history has influenced the heterogeneity of the Tien Shan relief, which is why high snowy peaks alternate with valleys and dilapidated plateaus.
Gifts of the Heavenly Mountains: Minerals
The description of the Tien Shan mountains cannot do without mentioning minerals, because this system brings a very good income to the states in whose territories it is located. First of all, these are complex conglomerates of polymetallic ores. Large deposits are found on the territory of all five countries. Most of all in the bowels of the mountains of lead and zinc, but you can find something more rare. For example, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan have established the extraction of antimony, and there are also separate deposits of molybdenum and tungsten. In the southern part of the mountains, near the Fregan Valley, coal is mined, as well as other fossil fuels: oil and gas. Of the rare elements found: strontium, mercury and uranium. But most of all, the territory is rich in building materials and semi-precious stones. The slopes and foot of the mountains are strewn with small deposits of cement, sand and various types of granite.
However, many minerals are not available for development, because infrastructure is very poorly developed in mountainous regions. Mining in hard-to-reach places requires very modern technical means and large financial investments. The states are in no hurry to develop the resources of the Tien Shan and often transfer the initiative to the private hands of foreign investors.
Ancient and modern glaciation of the mountain system
The height of the Tien Shan mountains is several times greater than the snow line, which means that it is no secret that the system is covered by a huge number of glaciers. However, the situation with glaciers is not very stable, because only in the last 50 years, their number has decreased by almost 25% (3 thousand square kilometers). For comparison, this is even more than the area of the city of Moscow. The depletion of the snow and ice cover of the Tien Shan threatens the region with a serious environmental disaster. First, this natural source feeding of rivers and alpine lakes. Secondly, it is the only source fresh water for all life that inhabits the slopes of the mountains, including local peoples and settlements. If changes continue at the same pace, then by the end of the 21st century, the Tien Shan will lose more than half of its glaciers and leave four countries without a valuable water resource.
Ice-free lake and other water bodies
The highest mountain of the Tien Shan is located near the highest lake in Asia - Issyk-Kul. This object belongs to the state of Kyrgyzstan, and is popularly called the Non-Freezing Lake. It's all about the low pressure at high altitude and the temperature of the water, thanks to which the surface of this lake never freezes. This place is the main tourist area of the region, on an area of more than 6 thousand square kilometers, there is a huge number of high-altitude resorts and various recreational areas.
Another picturesque water body of the Tien Shan is located in China, literally a hundred kilometers from the main trading city Urumqi. We are talking about Lake Tianshi - this is a kind of "Pearl of the Heavenly Mountains". The water there is so clean and transparent that it is difficult to realize the depth due to the fact that it seems that you can literally reach the bottom with your hand.
In addition to lakes, the mountains are cut by a huge number of river valleys. Small rivers originate from the very peaks and are fed by melted glacial waters. Many of them are still lost on the slopes of the mountains, others combine into larger water bodies and carry their waters to the foot.
From picturesque meadows to icy peaks: climate and natural conditions
Where the Tien Shan mountains are located, natural zones replace each other with height. Due to the fact that the orographic units of the system have a heterogeneous relief, different natural zones can be located at the same level in different parts of the Celestial Mountains:
- Alpine meadows. They can be located both at an altitude of more than 2500 meters, and at 3300 meters. A feature of this landscape is juicy hilly valleys that surround bare rocks.
- Forest zone. It is quite rare in this region, mainly in hard-to-reach high mountain gorges.
- Forest-steppe. The trees of this zone are low, mostly small-leaved or coniferous. To the south, a meadow and steppe landscape is more clearly seen.
- Steppe. This natural zone covers foothills and valleys. There is a huge variety of meadow grasses and steppe plants. How south region, the more clearly a semi-desert and in some places even a desert landscape is traced.
The climate of the Heavenly Mountains is very harsh and unstable. It is influenced by opposing air masses. In summer, the Tien Shan mountains are dominated by the tropics, and in winter, polar streams dominate here. In general, the region can be called rather arid and sharply continental. In the summer, dry winds and unbearable heat are very common. In winter, temperatures can drop to record highs, and frosts often occur during the off-season. Precipitation is very unstable, most of it occurs in April and May. It is the unstable climate that affects the reduction in the area of ice sheets. Also, a sharp change in temperature and constant winds have a very negative effect on the relief of the region. The mountains are slowly but surely being destroyed.
Untouched corner of nature: animals and plants
The Tien Shan mountains have become home to a huge number of living beings. The fauna is extremely diverse and varies considerably depending on the region. For example, the northern part of the mountains is represented by European and Siberian types, while the Western Tien Shan is inhabited by typical representatives of the Mediterranean, Africa and the Himalayan region. You can also easily meet typical representatives of the mountain fauna: snow leopards, snowcocks and mountain goats. Ordinary foxes, wolves and bears live in the forests.
The flora is also very diverse; fir and Mediterranean walnut can easily coexist in the region. In addition, there is a huge number of medicinal plants and valuable herbs. This is a real phyto pantry of Central Asia.
It is very important to protect the Tien Shan from human influence; for this, two reserves and one national park have been created in the region. There are so few places left on the planet with untouched nature, so it is important to direct all efforts to preserve this wealth for posterity.
