Chukotka Autonomous Okrug: on the other side of the Gulf of Anadyr. What to see in Chukotka Relief and climate Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

Cold winds and snowstorms, what else to expect from a region where winter lasts almost all year round? However, people still live here. The capital of Chukotka is the city of Anadyr. Who inhabits it? What is the history of this city? We will reveal the details about it.

Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

Chukotka is located in the Far North. It completely occupies the peninsula of the same name, as well as several nearby islands. In Russia, this district is surrounded by the Magadan Region, the Kamchatka Territory and Yakutia, in the east it borders on the United States. Its shores are washed by the Pacific and Arctic Oceans.

Most of the district is located beyond the Arctic Circle. What kind of sea is in Chukotka, only its inhabitants know: narwhals, fin whales, various whales and walruses. The temperature of local waters rarely exceeds 12 degrees. Speaking seriously about the seas of Chukotka, these harsh lands are washed by three equally harsh seas at once - the Bering, Chukchi and East Siberian.

Winter here lasts almost ten months, and a cold subarctic climate prevails throughout the year. Endless expanses with numerous hills, mirror-clear lakes and rocky shores are covered with snow most of the time. Summer, as such, does not happen in the region, the average temperature in July is only +5-+10 degrees. There are almost no roads in the region and there are no railway lines at all. Trucks and all-terrain vehicles are the main transport on the peninsula.

There are many records for the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug. On the territory of the district there are the extreme eastern points of Russia (Cape Dezhnev and Ratmanov Island), as well as the northernmost (Pevek) and the easternmost city of the country (Anadyr).

Within its limits is the easternmost permanent settlement - Uelen, the northernmost port of the country - Pevek. Rocky Cape Navarin is the windiest place in Russia, and Wrangel Island is home to the largest population of polar bears in the Arctic.

Capital of Chukotka

Anadyr is the largest settlement of the district and its administrative center. It is located on the shores of the Bering Sea estuary of the same name, where the Anadyr and Kazachka rivers flow into it. Just to the west of the city is Onemen Bay. Anadyr is located on a slight rise, its center is at an altitude of 35 meters above sea level. Huge tracts of flat tundra, occasionally covered with hills, stretch to the southwest of it.

This is one of the most remote cities in the country. Local time differs from Moscow by as much as nine hours. Geographically, the city is much closer to Alaska than to the capital of Russia (700 km to Nome, 6192 km to Moscow).

The area of ​​Anadyr is only 20 square kilometers. It is built up with panel and block high-rise buildings. The view of the city is a bit unusual. All his houses are colorful and resemble a toy town. This is how they cope with the pallor of local landscapes, because a small number of sunny days and the lack of bright colors around can cause a bad mood and even depression.

Climate

The climate of Anadyr is subarctic maritime. In addition, it has a monsoonal character. In fact, there are only two seasons here, and with each change, the air masses also change. In winter they are cold and dry, coming from the side of the continent. Their action is softened by the proximity of the sea. Therefore, winters in the city of Anadyr are easier to bear than in other regions of Chukotka.

Summers are very short and much cooler than in the rest of the region. At this time, the climate of the city is influenced by air currents from the ocean. They bring precipitation, fog and cloudiness, depriving the inhabitants of sunlight.

Winter in Anadyr lasts seven months, about 70 days of which there are snowstorms. Spring is almost imperceptible and lasts only the month of May. Autumn lasts from late August to late September.

The average temperature in July is +11 degrees, in January it reaches -22 degrees. Very often strong winds blow, which can reach up to 45 m/s. In summer they lead to storms and hurricanes, in winter they create severe snowstorms and snowstorms. In 1968, one of these winds carried a helicopter around the airfield.

Animal and plant world

The nature of Chukotka is not as lush and colorful as in the tropical regions of the Earth, but it cannot be called completely poor either. More than a thousand species of mosses and lichens grow here, as well as hundreds of species of trees and shrubs.

In the district, the zone of the Arctic desert, forest-tundra, tundra and deciduous taiga are distinguished. The city of Anadyr is located in the tundra zone. Alder, cotton grass, sedge, elfin cedar, mountain ash, blueberry bushes, lingonberries, wild roses, and shiksha grow around it. In addition, the tundra is rich in mushrooms. big layer permafrost prevents plants from deepening their roots. As a result, the trees of Chukotka are low, many look like shrubs.

The district is inhabited by hares, bighorn sheep, black squirrels, chipmunks, minks and predatory mammals, such as fox, wolf, wolverine, polar bear, sable. More than 200 bird species visit the region. The waters of the Bering Sea are full of fish and marine mammals. In the Anadyr estuary, locals catch smelt, pike, nelma, salmon, and tourists watch seals and beluga whales.

History of the county capital

The history of Anadyr, as a city, is connected with the development of northern lands by Russians. Chukotka was discovered thanks to Semyon Dezhnev in 1648. Then the region was nicknamed Zakolymya. In 1660, on the site of the first winter hut, the Anadyr prison was founded, which was located 10 kilometers from the village of Markovo.

In 1889, the researcher and physician Leonid Grinevetsky founded the Novo-Mariinsk post in the Anadyr district, placing it on the shore of the estuary. Then the settlements of the Chukchi were located on these lands. The place was very convenient - the spit consisted of rubble, not swampy tundra, and was a small hill.

Gradually, the post began to grow into a village, which later became the capital of Chukotka. It was renamed Anadyr in 1924. At that time, about 200 people lived here, a library and a first-aid post worked. Ten years later, the industrial development of Chukotka began, and Anadyr became the center of the district. Its population has increased to a thousand people.

The first school, a pedagogical school, appeared in the village. AT war time alternate airfields were built here, and the production of food tin began. After the Second World War, the settlement continued to expand: a seaport was created, a dam was built on the Kazachka River, and the first water supply system appeared. In 1965 Anadyr received city status.

Population

Residents of the city are called Anadyr. In terms of population, Anadyr is largest city Chukotka. About 15,000 people live in it. They are mostly Russians, there are also Ukrainians, Belarusians and Tatars.

The indigenous population of Anadyr and the entire region are Chukchi, Evens, Eskimos and Chuvans. They are engaged in traditional crafts: they fish, breed deer, hunt whales. The emergence of industrial cities and towns influenced their way of life. Those who live in cities often work in local businesses, live in standard apartments, as do non-indigenous residents.

But most adhere to the traditional way of life and even earn it from tourists. They move farther from the cities, periodically wandering through the expanses of the tundra.

The most numerous ethnic group is the Chukchi. In Anadyr in 2002 there were 1,200 of them. Near the city is their ethnic village Tavayvaam. Representatives of other nationalities are much less. In 2002, there were 153 Eskimos in the city of Anadyr, 200 Chuvans, and 142 Evens.

Many Chukchi still live in communities. They are engaged in fishing and sell handicrafts as souvenirs. Their traditional dwelling is called yaranga. This is a portable tent covered with animal skins. You can’t see them in Anadyr or Tavayvaam, since ordinary panel houses were built there for the Chukchi.

The religion of the people, like that of the Eskimos, is animism. The Chukchi believe in the spirituality of the forces of nature, luminaries and animals, they believe in the existence of evil spirits. On some holidays it is customary for them to “feed” the constellation or to make a sacrifice to the fire.

Life in Anadyr

This city is very clean and well maintained. All buildings and residential buildings in it are built on piles, and communications are carried out on top. This was done because of the permafrost. It comes very close to the surface of the earth. In contact with buildings, its upper layers can thaw and break the strength of the foundation.

So distant geographical position affects local prices. Living in Anadyr is very expensive. The cost of food and gasoline is almost twice the price of Moscow. There are few local products in the region, mainly reindeer meat and fish. The rest of the products are delivered to the city.

Residents of the city work at a fish factory, as well as at coal and gold mining enterprises that are nearby. Anadyr has two power plants - thermal and wind. The Anadyr wind farm is considered one of the largest in Russia.

You can get to the city by air. The local airport is connected by flights to Khabarovsk and Moscow. It is located on the other side of the estuary, from which a helicopter flies to Anadyr.

Sights of Anadyr

The capital of Chukotka is not deprived of sights. On the main square of the city - Lenin Square - there is a museum "Heritage of Chukotka". This is a very modern center with multimedia screens and other innovations. In it you can get acquainted with the life of Chukotka and the history of its development.

The Holy Trinity Cathedral on the bank of the estuary is the world's largest wooden church, which stands on the permafrost. It was founded only in 2002. The temple was built taking into account all the nuances of local soils and weather. So, the refrigeration units in its foundation do not allow the soil to heat up higher than -3 degrees, and all the aisles are combined so that the building can withstand the cold and wind.

In Anadyr there is a monument to Nicholas the Wonderworker, writer Yuri Rytkheu, a monument to Lenin and several memorials. Mount St. Dionysius is located 50 km from the city, and other mountains can be seen across the river to the west of it. Approximately 7 km away there is a hill of St. Michael, on which there is a tropospheric communication station.

Souvenirs

The main, and most importantly, tasty acquisition in the capital of Chukotka can be red caviar and fish. They are easy to find in the store, but it is better to get from local fishermen. Chukchi sell a kilogram of caviar for about 400 rubles.

For your own fishing and the purchase of some souvenirs, you need a special permit. But berries and mushrooms can be picked freely. They begin to appear in the summer-autumn period. On the pebble beach of Anadyr, in addition to the usual rubble, onyx and other gems come across. They will be a great keepsake.

Permission will be required for those who want to take seal fangs or deer antlers with them. A ball made of seal skin can also serve as exotic. Traditional souvenirs are also products made of whalebone, carvings made of bone or fangs, clothes made of leather and animal fur.

Center of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug. A port city located on the coast of the Anadyr Bay of the Bering Sea. Population 11,073 (2006), 13,045 (2010), 14,326 (2015), 15,604 (2018)

Anadyr from the word "Onandyr" - the Chukchi river, "Anadyrsk" - a prison from the times of Semyon Dezhnev and Kurbat Ivanov ( mid-seventeenth century). The local Chukchi population calls the city V'en "zev, entrance" or Kagyrlyn "entrance, mouth", which reflects its location with a narrow neck that opens the entrance to upper part Anadyr estuary.

The city of Anadyr was founded as the most northeastern outpost Russian Empire- Novo-Mariinsk in August 1889.
Its foundation is dictated by geopolitical interests Russian state, caused by the aggravation in the second half of the 19th century of contradictions between Russia, the USA and England in the northern part Pacific Ocean. The reason for the exacerbation was the increase American expansion first in territorial waters, and then, after the sale by the tsarist government in 1867 of Alaska and the Aleutian Islands to the United States of America, and on the northeast coast of the Russian Empire. It was not possible to limit the penetration of Americans into Chukotka by cruising military ships off its coast. And then the tsarist government, by decree of July 9, 1888, in order to consolidate statehood in the remote northeastern outskirts of the Russian Empire, established a new independent administrative unit- Anadyrsky district, having allocated for this part of the territory from the Gizhiginsky district. Among the priority tasks that the first head of the newly created Anadyr district, Leonid Grinevetsky, set for himself, was the foundation of its center.

At first, the post, and then the village was known under two names: Novo-Mariinsk and Anadyr, and dragged out its miserable existence. Despite this, here, on the outskirts of Russia, the routes of scientists of various profiles began to intersect more and more often. It is known that the first head of the Anadyr district, L.F. Grinevetsky, as well as N.L. Gondatti. Along with a rich scientific heritage dedicated to Chukotka, a true description of Novo-Mariinsk was left by the largest ethnographer, an exiled Narodnaya Volya member V.G. Tan-Bogoraz, who became a professor in Soviet times, a member of the Committee for the Affairs of the Peoples of the North.
The favorable geographical position of Novo-Mariinsk gradually attracted the attention of Russian and foreign merchants, gold prospectors, and fishermen. After the discovery in 1906 by the American prospector Nadeau, a Frenchman of Canadian origin, a few tens of kilometers from the county center, in the basin of the Volchya River, a small placer of gold, a Discovery joint-stock mine was formed to develop it. T. Birich, the son of a prominent Kamchatka businessman P. Birich, opened in Novo-Mariinsk a branch of the firm "Churkin and K" from Vladivostok. On the banks of the estuary, two large fishing trips were organized - Erikson and Grushetsky. The latter was the owner of the Pacific industries, which had their own steamships at their disposal. Indigenous people also began to settle here.
In 1914, one of the most powerful radio stations in Russia was built in Novo-Mariinsk, on which long-wave spark transmitters were installed, which made it possible to provide reliable communication with Petropavlovsk, Okhotsk, and Nome.

Before the revolution of 1917, there were warehouses, a prison, and several houses on the left bank of the Kazachka River. Construction in Novo-Mariinsk was carried out on the right bank. There were 30-40 houses here, the new house of the county chief, warehouses, a bathhouse, a medical assistant's station, yarangas, and a chapel. Above, on the bank of the estuary, there was a post office and a radio station.

The revolutionary events of 1917 did not bypass Novo-Mariinsk. In 1919, the First Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka was created here. In 1920, after a counter-revolutionary coup and the execution of the Revolutionary Committee, the Anadyr district executive committee was elected, reorganized in 1921 into the Narrevkom. In the same year, a union of workers and employees was created in Anadyr - the first trade union organization in Chukotka.

The rapid growth of Anadyr began after the formation of the Chukotka National District in accordance with the Decree of the Presidium of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee "On the organization of national associations in the areas of settlement of the peoples of the North" of December 10, 1930.
Anadyr became the center of the Chukotka national district in 1932.
In 1934, by the Decree of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee, the village of Anadyr was renamed into a city, but it received the official status of a city many years after the Great Patriotic War– in 1965. In 1935, the Anadyr permafrost station of the USSR Academy of Sciences was organized.

On January 1, 1941, 3,100 people lived in Anadyr. Many Anadyr residents took part in the construction of a military airfield to ferry military aircraft from Vancouver to the fronts of the Great Patriotic War, raised funds for the construction of military equipment, and sent parcels with warm clothes to front-line soldiers.
In 1943, the first graduation of young Chukotka teachers took place in Anadyr. Among them were 3 Chukchi, 4 Eskimos, 1 Chuvan. On January 3, 1947, the district library was opened in the village of Anadyr. The village library has existed here since 1924, although this fact has not been documented anywhere.
In 1949, the Anadyr district industrial complex began its work. On May 1, 1953, the first issue of the Sovetken Chukotka newspaper was published. In 1954, on the basis of a decree of the Council of Ministers of the RSFSR, a construction department was created - SMU-1, later renamed SSK-4. In 1955, a port office was organized in Anadyr on the shore of Melkaya Bay. He had two boats, three kungas, a car. In 1958, the Okrug House began to work in Anadyr. folk art and music school. In 1961, an agricultural technical school was opened on the basis of the school of collective farm personnel in Anadyr.
In 1961, the Anadyr seaport was formed. In 1963, the House of Culture was put into operation in Anadyr, in the construction of which the public and youth took an active part. 1963 - the construction of a dam on the Kazachka River was completed, which made it possible to carry out water supply to Anadyr. The dam is 1300 meters long and 16 meters high. In 1964, VGChPU was created.

In 1964, the first Anadyr automatic telephone exchange was put into operation.
On January 12, 1965, by the Decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR, the center of the Chukotka National District - the village of Anadyr - was transformed into a city of regional subordination.
This year 97 children were born in Anadyr. In total, more than 5 thousand people lived in Anadyr.
On October 31, 1967, the Anadyr TV Center hosted the first telecast. In 1967, the first four-story residential building was built in Anadyr (Lenina, 36). In 1967, a monument to V.I. Lenin. On August 7, 1968, the professional Chukchi-Eskimo national ensemble "Ergyron" was created.
Since 1973, the production of the brewery began.
In 1978, the construction of a new meat and dairy plant began.
In 1980, Anadyr became the administrative center of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug (on the basis of the Law "On Autonomous Okrugs of the RSFSR", the Chukotka National Okrug was transformed into an autonomous one).
In 1994, the Chukotka District College of Arts began its work in the capital of the district.

After a decline in socio-economic development, characterized by a decline in living standards and a mass exodus of the able-bodied population from the northern regions, which began with the collapse Soviet Union and continued until the end of the 20th century, since 2001, a period of "second" birth, intensive renewal and development began in Anadyr.
On August 11, 2004, the world's largest monument to St. Nicholas the Wonderworker was unveiled in Anadyr.

The works of recent years (Ainana et al., 1999; 2000; 2001; Mymrin, 2000, and others) show that the life support of the indigenous inhabitants of the Chukotka Peninsula is made up of wildlife resources, harvested and used by the indigenous people in traditional ways.

In the last two or three years, the list of species used by traditional fisheries includes bowhead and gray whales, beluga whales, walruses, bearded seals, akiba, and spotted seals. In a number of villages, a polar bear is regularly hunted.

The second place in the life support of the indigenous people is occupied by fish, and among them are mainly marine and anadromous fish species. In the first place among the fish, it is probably necessary to put the polar cod (cod), which (with a massive approach to the shores) is caught by all the inhabitants of the villages, from children to very old people.

In second place (in terms of catch volume) should be char. This species is caught in the sea, in estuaries and lagoons along the Chukchi coast everywhere. The fishing period is determined by the time of summer feeding of charrs, descending into the sea in May-June and returning to the rivers in August-September, that is, about three months. In winter, char is caught in the rivers much less.

Among salmon, pink salmon is caught in significant quantities along the coast, and chum salmon is caught in smaller quantities. Even less and not everywhere the inhabitants of the coast catch sockeye salmon, coho salmon. Chinook is caught only occasionally.

From purely marine fish, navaga is mined in significant quantities. It is usually caught during the ice period. Everywhere in small quantities flounder and goby are caught. In a number of places they take smelt, capelin, cod and a number of other marine species.

In addition to these species, a number of freshwater fish species are caught in rivers and lakes.

Invertebrates play an important role in the diet of indigenous people. They catch, and more often they collect on the shore, different types crabs (blue crab, polar crab), several types of molluscs, sea squirts. In significant quantities, in all the villages of the coast, residents use the bodies of mollusks taken from the stomachs of hunted walruses in their diet.

The indigenous inhabitants of the coast use in large quantities several types of seaweed, called by the common collective word "seaweed". Each inhabitant consumes tens of kilograms (in wet weight) of seaweed during the year.

Of the terrestrial animals, the hare, fox, wolverine, wolf, and brown bear are most often hunted. The extraction of these species is most often carried out in the coastal part.

In the absence of federal and regional support in providing jobs and basic food indigenous people Chukotka Peninsula is engaged in self-sufficiency. The main role in the nutrition of residents in last years marine mammals play, and among them are walruses, whales (grey whale, to a lesser extent - bowhead whale) and several species of seals. All whales and pinnipeds are taken from local watercraft (boats, whaleboats, leather canoes). The weapons used are carbines and hand-held harpoon guns received as humanitarian aid from Alaskan whalers.

Fat and meat of sea animals has a high calorie content. Historically, the body of the indigenous population is adapted to feeding on the proteins and fats of marine animals, and there is always an acute physiological demand for this food, even in the presence of European food. The meat is used for food in raw, boiled, frozen, dried form. There are a number of original methods for harvesting and storing meat and fat products of marine mammals. From the extracted animals, almost everything is used in food, with the exception of bones, some parts of the intestines and some other organs.

The methods of harvesting and using various types of fish, which occupy an important place in the diet of the population, are not particularly original and are widely known. In the presence of salt, salmon are salted for storage and use in the winter. Part of the fish, in the presence of refrigerators and permafrost, is frozen. A widely used method of storing fish is by drying it without salt.

Aerial surveys in the Gulf of Anadyr, carried out in the 80s and 90s by the Magadan branch of TINRO, our own aerial surveys in the 80s showed that large groups of walruses, the number of which exceeds 50 thousand heads, are wintering in the Gulf of Anadyr. There are also concentrations of beluga whales, bowhead whales, and polar bears. According to MO TINRO, the number of Akiba here exceeds 125 thousand individuals. Tens of thousands of bearded seals, spotted seals and lionfish winter here. The high abundance of whales and pinnipeds is due to the high density of food objects for all types of marine mammals.

In the spring and autumn months, accumulations of humpback whales and minke whales are noted in the Anadyr Bay. Along the coast from Cape Bering to Cape Chukotsky, during the ice-free period, sea lions are observed, forming a number of coastal haulouts in this section of the coast.

St. John's wort observers from the coastal villages of the Gulf of Anadyr, carrying out a program of observations of marine mammals, in 1999 and 2000 during the autumn months noted groups of fishing vessels off the coast of the Chukotka Peninsula in the Gulf of Anadyr.

On August 10, 2000, observers from the village of Enmelen recorded that there were 10 fishing boats at Cape Chirikov. In the period from 25 to 30 August, 5-6 fishing boats were in the same area every day. On September 21-22, 2000, 4 fishing vessels were observed in the same area. On October 12, 2000, six fishing vessels were in the area from Cape Bering to Cape Chirikov. Observers from the village of Nunligran noted hieroglyphs on board the fishing boats. According to the information of the regional fish protection inspectorate, Korean vessels were fishing.

It should be noted that in the area of ​​Cape Chirikov on the Redkin Spit there is the largest walrus rookery in Russia, where the number of animals in summer and autumn reaches from 5-10 thousand to 20-30 thousand in different years.

A similar picture of the location of fishing vessels and, probably, fishing in the Gulf of Anadyr and directly in the coastal zone of the Chukotka Peninsula was observed in 1999.

The newspaper of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug "Krainiy Sever" in 2000 repeatedly published information about the plans of the Okrug administration to develop commercial ship fishing in the coastal zone of Chukotka. For these purposes, crabs, shrimp, trawlers were specially purchased - four or five vessels in total. As you can see from the materials above, this does not limit the fishing of third-party vessels and companies. The authorities refer to the federal legislation on the exclusive right of the subject of the federation (in this case, the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug) to fish and other water resources in the 12-mile coastal zone. At the same time, the authorities forget, as always, about the right of indigenous peoples to live and survive at the expense of these same marine resources.

There is no doubt that in the shallow Anadyr Bay, where depths range from 20–40 to 60–80 meters, in a matter of years, with the existing fishing zeal and the absence of reasonable and legislative brakes, the main resources of fish and invertebrates will be undermined. What will happen to local fish resources, how many species of marine mammals will exist, for which the Anadyr Bay is a kind of home (there is a massive pup of bearded seal, akiba, spotted seal, part of the population of lionfish, walrus), apparently, no one is interested. Already in 2000, the local coastal population of the Chukotka Peninsula experienced difficulties with fishing. The Chukotka branch of TINRO does not hesitate to issue essentially unlimited recommendations for fishing and other seafood. By the way, in the past decades, fishing was not carried out in the Gulf of Anadyr.

The economic ruin of the people of Chukotka can be supplemented by the ruin of the resource base of people's existence. In this situation, people will not have any choice in life.

The area with the world's richest resources of marine mammals, the preserved marine animal culture of the indigenous population, is in danger.

To prevent an impending catastrophe, it is necessary to take measures to prevent fishing and invertebrates in the Gulf of Anadyr (to the north of 62 degrees north latitude). This water area should be preserved as a feeding, breeding and wintering area for many species of marine mammals, some of which are in a threatening state. And also as an area with resources of marine mammals, fish and other resources vital for the life and traditional employment of the indigenous people of Chukotka. By the way, part of the resources of marine mammals in the Gulf of Anadyr is used by the population of a number of coastal settlements in Alaska.

The indigenous people of Chukotka will have to survive in their history another onslaught of modern barbarians, equipped with the latest technology for destruction natural resources. There is a lot of hard work ahead to preserve the unique natural complex of Beringia.

Posted Sun, 09/11/2014 - 08:51 by Cap

walrus rookery in Chukotka

TOURISM IN CHUKOTKA
There are places in the world, as if specially created for testing a person “for strength”. Chukotka is one of them. A land of permafrost, winds and blizzards, cutting two oceans like a rocky wedge, Chukotka reveals its unique beauty only to those who are bravely ready to face difficulties. The extreme nature of the climate has formed a very special philosophy of life of the indigenous peoples, whose way of life was initially subject to highest goal— survival.
That is why in Chukotka the upbringing of fortitude and body strength, physical endurance and dexterity has always been considered very important. And today the development of sports in the district plays a significant role. Moreover, both Olympic and national sports are popular. Dog and reindeer sled races, canoe competitions are an exciting and colorful spectacle, which many people come to admire from afar. However, a brave traveler is waiting for a lot of vivid impressions and unique sensations in Chukotka.
This ancient land seems to breathe eternity itself. The whole appearance of Chukotka is permeated with clarity, directness and nakedness. And in the third millennium, one can see here the same landscape that once appeared to the eyes of Russian pioneers: convincingly simple outlines of coasts and mountains, as if straight valleys carved with a chisel, placers of lakes and purest rivers flowing into the icy seas.
The hospitality of the original owners of this land - the Chukchi, Eskimos, Evens, Chuvans, their dances and songs, their original art, carefully preserved for centuries ... Chukotka is an amazing land that has managed to preserve life and the ability to flourish in harsh polar conditions. In the short northern summer, in the conditions of permafrost, a miracle happens here every year - a real riot of the revival of nature, captivating a person with its unique beauty. The hubbub of bird colonies, the piercing blue of estuaries merging with the sky, the bright colors of the tundra, reminiscent of a colorful carpet ...
However, Chukotka, wrapped in snow, is no less attractive for tourists who are ready to test their courage and stamina. After all, white silence only at first glance seems monotonous - life among the snows does not stop for a minute! Do you know how warm it is even in the most severe cold in yaranga? Have you ever traveled on dog and reindeer sleds? Can you imagine how walrus is hunted and how delicious smelt caught by one's own hands is? If you want to take a break from civilization in the pristine world of nature, if you are attracted by the unknown and a thirst for adventure, then a trip to Chukotka will be a real pleasure for you!

(Chukotka), an archaeological complex consisting of two rows of huge bones of bowhead whales dug into the ground.
The complex was opened in 1976 by a group of researchers from the Institute of Ethnography of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR under the leadership of M.A. Chlenov.
Considered one of the wonders of Russia!



However, until recently, no one knew anything about her. There is a unique archaeological complex to the northeast of Providence Bay, in the Bering Strait, on Yttygran Island. According to scientists, Whale Alley is considered a miracle not only from a scientific, but also an archaeological point of view.

The bay, on the bank of which the monument is located, is surrounded from the northeast and southwest by steep rocky ledges, but between them the hills go down somewhat and form a relatively gentle slope covered with various tundra vegetation. Against this green background, groups of columns of whale jaws that seem bright white from afar are clearly visible, and when approaching the shore over the grassy edge of the beach, bizarre outlines of whale skulls dug into the pebbles with a narrow bow become visible.

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SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTO:
Team Nomads
http://www.chukotka.org
http://www.visitchukotka.com
http://www.chukotken.ru/
S. Bolashenko. Narrow gauge railways of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug (June 23, 2007).
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Belikovich A.V., Galanin A.V. Chukotka: natural and economic essay. - Moscow: Art-Liteks, 1995. - S. 98-99.
Sports and Tourism Committee of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug
An increase in the number of tourists was recorded in Chukotka in 2010 // Portal of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug
http://www.photosight.ru/
photo authors: A. Kutsky, V. Silantiev, S. Shulga, S. Anisimov,
Tourism in Chukotka is no longer a myth, but a reality // ratanews.ru
Chukotka Autonomous Okrug - article from the Great Soviet Encyclopedia
Official website of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug
Legislation of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug
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Leontiev V.V., Novikova K.A. Toponymic Dictionary of the North-East of the USSR. - Magadan: Magadan book publishing house, 1989, p. 161.
A. A. Korobkov. Red Book of Russia (1981).

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Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

The Chukotka Autonomous Okrug occupies the most northeastern part of Eurasia, it covers a piece of continental land, the Chukotka Peninsula, the Ratmanov, Wrangel, Ayon, Herald Islands and several others. Here is Cape Dezhnev, which is extreme point mainland in the east. The lands of the district are washed by three seas belonging to two oceans. The Chukotka peninsula cuts like a wedge into the world ocean, separating the waters of the Pacific from the waters of the Arctic.

On the territory, which occupies more than 720 thousand km 2, which could accommodate France and Great Britain, only about 50 thousand people live, of which about a quarter are indigenous people - the Chukchi. Almost half of the lands of the Chukotka Okrug are located beyond the conditional border of the Arctic Circle, and the entire territory is considered the Far North. Paradoxically, it is true that part of the easternmost region, the Chukotka Peninsula, is located in the Western Hemisphere.

The Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is adjacent to two other subjects of the Russian Federation - and. About eighty kilometers separate the region from the American peninsula and the state of Alaska, with which the border runs along the waters of the Bering Strait, so the district is considered a border area.

There are 3 cities, 15 settlements and about 45 villages in the district. The administration is located in the central city of Anadyr with a population of about 15 thousand people. It is located on the coast of the Gulf of Anadyr, which belongs to the waters of the Bering Sea.

Traces of human habitation in Chukotka since prehistoric times are numerous and eloquently indicate that Alaska and Chukotka were once a single continent, part of which went under water about 10 thousand years ago. Scientists dubbed the hypothetical continent Beringia. They suggest that the settlement of Chukotka went precisely through the sunken isthmus, since many finds on the land of the peninsula indicate that they lived there even before the Chukchi - Indians, Aleuts, Eskimos. In the 17th century, Semyon Dezhnev explored Chukotka, declaring it a Russian possession. He also built the first prison, demolished later. At the end of the 19th century, Grinevsky founded the border post, which was then called Novo-Mariinsk. The renaming to Anadyr took place already in 1923, after the establishment of Soviet power. The district with the status of "national" was formed in 1930. It became an independent subject of the federation in 1992.

Relief and climate Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

The relief of the district is characterized by an abundance of lowlands, hills, uplands and ridges. In the west, there is the Ush-Urekchen mountain system and the Oloy Range; the center with the Anadyr plateau crosses the Anyui ridge with the volcano of the same name. The east is occupied by the Chukchi Highlands, and the southeastern part of the peninsula is occupied by the Koryak. The south is the Anadyr lowland. Most of the hills located in the east have a rounded shape and are hills, the picture of which from the sea has become the hallmark of Chukotka.

75% of all land is occupied by tundra, about 7% by forest tundra. The rest of the territory of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is located in the zone of Arctic deserts. The lowlands of the district are swampy, there are many lakes, the water of which is so pure that it can be drunk without fear. The deepest is Lake Elgygytgyn with a depth of about 170 meters, and the largest is Krasnoe, occupying about 600 km2. The longest river in Chukotka is the Anadyr - it stretches for 1117 kilometers. Among the largest rivers, Anyui, Omolon, Velikaya, Amguema are noted. Reservoirs of Chukotka sleep under ice for almost 8 months. The rivers of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug are distinguished by stormy and abundant floods.

The East Siberian Sea is filled with the coldest waters, the water of the Chukchi Sea is slightly warmer, but autumn storm winds raise waves up to 7 meters high there and form 5-6-meter hummocks. The Bering Sea is the warmest and most suitable for navigation.

The relief and climate of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug have become the reasons for the sparsely populated region. If the mainland is characterized by an arctic climate, then the coast is sharply continental, maritime. Windy and frosty winter lasts up to nine months. The blizzard can last for weeks. Summer is cool and rainy. Not everywhere for summer period snow has time to completely melt on the surface of the earth, and in its depths the permafrost never melts.

Average January temperatures fluctuate by regions and fall in the range from -15°C to -39°C, and in the west of the region, the maximum cold mark reaches -60°C. In July, the average temperature in the regions varies from +5°C to +10°C. Sometimes there can be separate hot days. The absolute warmest record was +34°C.

Roads - Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

Due to the vast territories, harsh climate and low population density, building roads is a very expensive undertaking. Travel over long distances is carried out by sea or air transport. Railways in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug, except for departmental narrow-gauge railways, they are absent.

Chukotka's international airports are located in Anadyr and the village of Proveniya. From there you can fly to Anchorage or Nome in the US state of Alaska. The federal airport is also located in Pevek. From these airports you can fly to Moscow, Khabarovsk or Magadan. Local airlines connect these airports with each other and each of them with remote villages of the district.

Sea communication, hindered during freezing, connects five ports of federal importance: Egvekinot, Beringovsky, Conduction, Pevek, Anadyr, and each of them - with the "mainland".

The roads of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug are mostly rolled snow strips or winter roads, which can only be driven by snowmobiles, all-terrain vehicles or off-road trucks. Hard surface have only roads in cities and suburbs.

The federal highway is only about 30 kilometers long and connects the Anadyr heliport with the Ugolnye Kopiy airport. The eight-kilometer section of this route runs right through the ice of the Gulf of Anadyr. A highway is under construction that will connect the center of the region with Kolyma via Omsukchan and Omolon.

Recreation - Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

Life in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is not easy and requires courage, perseverance and calmness from local residents, and even more so from visitors. But those who dare to challenge the harsh climate are rewarded with the hospitality of the Chukchi, vivid impressions from the northern landscapes that have not changed for centuries, and from the originality way of life indigenous people.

Living in a real yaranga, taking part in a walrus hunt, pulling a fish out of icy water - a traveler in Chukotka is waiting for a lot of new, previously unexplored sensations. Rest in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is possible both in short, bright summers and in cold, snowy winters - however, varying degrees extremeness.

The district has developed water, cruise, scientific, ethnographic, expeditionary, historical and event tourism, and all these types do not exist on their own, but in close connection with each other.

In the waterways of Chukotka, tourists raft in inflatable boats or kayaks in July or August. Cruise ships from America, Britain and Kamchatka ply along the shores of the Providensky and Chukotka regions. Tourist liners make stops to explore the Whale Alley, ethnographic villages on Capes Dezhnev and Nunyamo, and plunge into the hot Lorin springs.

Summer sea cruises are organized from Anadyr along the coast, to Onemen Bay, to the Kanchalan or Anadyr estuary, to the mouths of the Velikaya or Anadyr rivers. Travelers watch the bird colonies of Alyumka Island, the game of white whales and curious seals.

Scientific tourism in Chukotka is represented by numerous expeditions of scientists different countries who study the unique life of small peoples, their languages, crafts and ways of survival. Ornithologists come to study the birds, of which there are about 220 species, and oceanologists to study the resources of the northern seas.

The basis historical tourism about five hundred archaeological sites have been laid, which completely change the established ideas about the development of civilizations: Chukotka was inhabited by people who knew how to work metal, when there was no Ancient Greece or Ancient Rome.

Ethnographic tourism in Chukotka allows you to get acquainted with the customs, art and life of the Chukchi, Eskimos, Koryaks and Evenks, who greet guests with traditional hospitality and hospitality. Event tourism is associated with participation in colorful national holidays: the festival of sea hunters, folklore festivals, thanksgiving rites, holidays of the whale, young deer, first calf, canoe stingray and many others.

Extreme and expeditionary in Chukotka can be any long hiking or skiing trip, in which participants discover hard-to-reach places, their reserve capabilities and strength of mind.

Outdoor recreation in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

The most remarkable sights of the Chukotka region are worth seeing in natural conditions despite the harsh climate. Only archaeological sites number in the hundreds. Among them are the northernmost petroglyphs in the world - drawings on the rocks on the banks of the Pegtymel River, which stretched for several kilometers. To the south of Cape Dezhnev, archaeologists have unearthed "Arctic Troy" - an Eskimo settlement that serves as confirmation of the existence of an ancient unique civilization - original, ideally adapted to life in the conditions of the north.

Guests of Chukotka may be interested to get acquainted with the protected treasures of Wrangel Island, the Lebediny federal reserve, the Beringia ethnopark, and seven regional natural, ornithological and zoological reserves.

The unique lands of Wrangel Island are known for numerous walrus rookeries, arctic dolphins and whales swim in their coastal waters, musk oxen and domestic reindeer brought there live. Polar bears come there for childbirth, thousands of seabirds and white geese nest.

The headwaters of the Anadyr River are adorned with a geological monument - Lake Elgygytgyn - one of the three lakes in the world that have an absolutely regular circle shape. The area of ​​110 km 2 is filled with the purest water to a depth of 174 meters. It is assumed that water fills either an ancient volcanic crater, or a funnel from a meteorite fall.

Outdoor recreation in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is often associated with a visit to the iconic point of Chukotka - the intersection of the Arctic Circle with the 180th meridian, from which a new day begins. Passing under the arch, symbolizing the Arctic Circle, travelers approach a pillar with distance indicators to South Pole(17408) and Moscow (10468 kilometers). Those who wish can visit the northernmost cape of Chukotka Shelaginsky with a lighthouse and an unexplored natural monument - Plitovaya Alley, a six-meter chain of granite walls.

Tourists are definitely invited to visit one of the Russian wonders - the Whale Alley, located in the Bering Strait, on the island of Yttygran. In a rocky bay, on the gentle slopes of hills covered with tundra herbs, there are numerous white pillars, which, upon closer examination, turn out to be the bones of whale tusks with the nasal parts of skulls dug into the ground. On the way to the Whale Alley, travelers visit the fjords of Providence Bay - the most beautiful natural places Chukotka.

In the Providensky district, thermal Senyavinsky and Novochaplinsky springs gush out of the ground, hot water where you can swim in equipped pools all year round. On the eastern coast of Chukotka, on the healing thermal Lorin springs, a balneological resort complex has been opened.

Tourism - Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

For tourists and local residents, active recreation in Chukotka consists of hiking and skiing, multi-day summer trips on ATVs and winter trips on snowmobiles, mountain skiing, river rafting, winter and summer hunting or fishing, climbing small hills. Tourists watch national amusements - races on sleds drawn by dogs or deer, whaleboats or canoes, and sometimes take an active part in them or learn to throw zakidushki, chaat or harpoon.

The rivers of Chukotka attract fishermen, sportsmen and extreme sportsmen. Water tourism in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is active in July and August, when the rivers are full and the weather is more or less favorable. The most popular are rafting on inflatable boats or kayaks along Amgueme, 310 kilometers long, Ekittyki - 94, Chantalveergyn - 150 and Anadyr - about 300 kilometers. Motor boats can be rented in Anadyr, the villages of Ust-Belaya, Makarovo, Egvekino, Amguema.

On a trip to Cape Navarin, tourists find themselves among hundreds of thousands of birds soaring everywhere on the ocean, covered with dense clouds. On the cape, called the Cape of All Winds, because storms often fall on it, and wild winds constantly walk around, travelers get after a 250-kilometer hike or by combining hiking with water crossings.

On trips on ATVs along the coasts of two oceans, tourists overcome mountain ranges, cross dozens of Chukotka rivers, cross the Arctic Circle and the 180th meridian.

A trip on ATVs with a hike to the Dionisy and Komsomolskaya hills, about half a kilometer high, has not so much a sporting as an aesthetic meaning, since the hills offer a panorama of the Golden Ridge, Onemen Bay and the Kanchalan Estuary. In almost any trip, tourists are given the opportunity to drive on reindeer or dog sleds.

In winter, tourists are offered to take part in a multi-day snowmobile trip across the whole of Chukotka, and in summer, a mixed (on foot, car and boat) route to Cape Dezhnev with visits to many tourist sites and natural monuments, such as a waterfall falling from a cliff directly into the Bering Strait. The most courageous thrill-seekers can go to North Pole on a dog sled.

AT Chukotka skiing is popular. All conditions are created here on the slopes with lifts and rental points on the slopes of the hills of Portovaya and Pionerskaya near the villages of Provision and Egvekinot.

Hunting and fishing - Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

Fishing in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

The region is known for large-scale marine fishing, and amateur fishing in Chukotka is famous for salmon - chinook salmon, chum salmon, sockeye salmon, coho salmon, pink salmon and others. Fishing in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is carried out not only on the seas, but also in lakes and rivers.

Here it is difficult to draw a line between sea hunting and fishing, when St. John's wolves are engaged in the traditional hunting of walrus, seal, seal, and lahatka. Only in the Bering Sea there are more than four hundred species of fish, which represent 65 families. About fifty of them can become objects of fishing. Crabs, cephalopods, squids are harvested from sea delicacies.

The lakes of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug and other reservoirs of Chukotka are home to about forty fish species, but the main ones are: smelt, char, salmon, whitefish, white salmon, grayling, burbot, pike. On the Red Lake, you can fish for pike, pink salmon, chum salmon (outside the spawning ban), nelma, broad whitefish, whitefish. After the ice melts, the white whale comes to the lake. Sockeye salmon and white fish live in large quantities in Lake Pekulneyskoye, and char and char in Elgygytgyn, but this lake is one of the water bodies prohibited for fishing.

The catch of whitefish and Pacific salmon is carried out on permits. With last day June, for three months, there is a ban on spinning salmon fishing in rivers flowing into the sea and their tributaries, except for lure using fishing line up to 0.3 mm thick and a hook with a distance between the tip and the forearm up to 7 mm. There are length restrictions on the catch of various types of bioresources. We have to release kunja, anadromous Dolly Varden, lenok, burbot shorter than 45 centimeters, nelma and taimen less than 70, broad whitefish - 40, catfish, pike - less than 50 and so on in accordance with the rules of fishing.

The rivers of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug of the Kolyma basin are known for their catches of whitefish, two species of whitefish, peled, vendace, and valka. Reservoirs of the Mainypilga system and the region of the Anadyr estuary serve as fishing grounds a large number chum salmon. Often organized fishing in Chukotka is carried out during river rafting.

Hunting in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug

Hunting has always served the aboriginal peoples of the region as a means of subsistence. Sea fur hunting along with bird hunting, polar bear or deer allowed them to survive in arctic conditions.

Hunting in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is carried out on lands spread over hundreds of square kilometers. Slaughter of animals is allowed: elk, wolverine, lynx, brown bear, fox, squirrel, arctic fox, muskrat, wild deer, wolf, mink, ermine, otter, hare, sable. From birds, you can get white-fronted geese and bean goose, partridges, ducks, stone capercaillie.

From animals it is forbidden to shoot weasels, polar bears, black-capped marmots, bighorn sheep, but if the minimum population level is exceeded, a license can be issued for any of these species. From birds it is not allowed to shoot swans, black geese, barnacles, mallards, white geese, eiders, shovelers, pebbles, teals, cormorants, gulls, sandhill cranes, owls, woodpeckers and a number of other useful birds. Of the marine mammals, it is not allowed to catch narwhal, humpback, fin whale, sei whale, blue and gray whale and minke whale.

Commercial hunting for wild deer in Chukotka allows satisfying the population's need for dietary meat. Of the birds, the white partridge is distinguished by the largest stocks, for which the season opens on the third Saturday of August and lasts until the end of February.

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