Petrogradsky district, its history and modern life. Route “Amazing Petrogradka”

The Petrograd side is the territory that includes Petrogradsky, Zayachiy, Aptekarsky and Petrovsky islands. This is one of the most beautiful and interesting areas of the historical center for walking.

It is interesting that in Peter’s time it was here that the city began to be built: on the future Petrograd side, Peter himself lived, and the Governing Senate and collegiums were located. True, quite quickly the courtyard and institutions moved to the other side of the Neva, and the status of the area immediately changed: until the beginning of the 20th century, the St. Petersburg side was almost a suburb, with wooden houses and gardens.

Everything changed again in 1903, when the Trinity Bridge connected the St. Petersburg side and the center. Over the next 10 years, the St. Petersburg side became the most fashionable and actively developing area of ​​the city: until the First World War, 200 multi-storey buildings were built here per year! That is why Petrogradka, especially Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt, is a real “monument” to the Art Nouveau style: in those 10-15 years that the prospect was being built, this architectural style dominated in the minds of architects and clients. This “rapid development” also led to another feature of the Petrograd side: since some areas between the houses did not have time to be developed in 15 years, parks later appeared in them (however, in our time, developers are actively making up for lost time - to the detriment of the parks).

Inspecting all the sights of the Petrograd side would take more than one week, but we will try to talk about the most interesting of them (including little-known ones, since the Peter and Paul Fortress or the Leningrad Zoo, I think, don’t need introductions anyway)..

In Alexander Park you can find a small “miniature park”: copies of the main St. Petersburg attractions on a scale of 1:33. There is a small Kazan Cathedral, and St. Isaac's, and Palace Square, and the Peter and Paul Fortress. And next to it are sculptures of Rastrelli, Rossi, Trezzini, Montferrand, Voronikhin and Thomas de Thomon, sitting at the same table.

The museum is located in the former Arsenal - a gloomy red-brick building in the shape of a horseshoe. The square in front of the museum is adored by all male children: it is all filled with cannons, rocket launchers and self-propelled guns.

An ultra-modern building at that time with a solarium, a shop, a restaurant, a kindergarten and a club was built in 1933 for members of the Society of Former Political Prisoners and Exiled Settlers. The residents were mainly Mensheviks and Socialist Revolutionaries, who had once been imprisoned in tsarist prisons. However, the happiness did not last long: already in 1935 the Society was closed, the families were evicted, and most of the adult residents were arrested again.

Not only the museum itself is noteworthy, but also the two mansions in which it is located: the stunningly beautiful Brandt mansion with its wrought iron gates and an amazing hanging lantern in the courtyard arch, and the Kshesinskaya mansion.

The first home of Peter I in St. Petersburg, carefully preserved to this day in its original form thanks to a stone “case”. The house itself is striking in its modesty: small, wooden, consisting of three rooms and a hallway. The exhibition includes authentic things of Peter I and household items from the Peter I era.

The apartment building of the First Russian Insurance Company, better known as the Benois House, occupies an entire block. It was built according to the design of three representatives of the legendary family - brothers Leonty and Albert and their cousin Julius Benois. The house is famous for its interesting appearance and a huge branched system of walk-through courtyards.

Austrian Square

The octagonal square at the intersection of Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt and Mira Street really looks most like a piece of an old European town. It was named Austrian recently, in 1992: before that, the square had no name at all. Interestingly, after the square received its name, it was planned to open Austrian shops, cafes, a pharmacy, and even place Austrian trash cans here. Unfortunately, the project was not implemented, but the square is still beautiful.

To save this cozy public garden, which was given over for development, an initiative group of musicians, writers and artists planted personalized trees in it. Later, amazing violin sculptures appeared, scattered throughout the park: an apple violin, a shoe violin, a woman violin, a gramophone violin, even two sphinx violins. In the center there is a concert platform in the shape of a violin, where concerts take place.

House with towers

Even among the amazingly beautiful houses of Kamennoostrovsky, the House with Towers stands out: the facade facing Leo Tolstoy Square is decorated with hexagonal towers in the style of medieval English castles. The windows are decorated with bright platbands, located asymmetrically and have a variety of shapes. On the ground floor of the House with Towers the theater “Russian Entreprise named after Andrei Mironov” operates today.

Victor Tsoi Square

The nameless square on the corner of Zverinskaya Street and Lyubansky Lane is now officially called Viktor Tsoi Square. The location was not chosen by chance: nearby is the legendary Kamchatka boiler house, where Tsoi worked as a fireman, and now there is a club-museum.

A small but very atmospheric museum, opened in the building of the Eastern European Institute. In the first hall there are simply information display cases telling about the life and works of Freud. The most interesting thing begins in the second room: this is the dream room. The museum often holds interesting lectures, exhibitions, and discussion clubs.

- (until 1914 St. Petersburg side), the historical district of Leningrad, includes Petrogradsky, Aptekarsky, Petrovsky, Zayachiy islands. The development of the territory of the Petrograd side began in 1703 with the foundation of the Peter and Paul Fortress on Hare Island.… … Encyclopedic reference book "St. Petersburg"

Petrograd side- (until 1914 St. Petersburg side), the historical district of Leningrad, includes Petrogradsky, Aptekarsky, Petrovsky, Zayachiy islands (see articles about each). Development of the territory of P. s. began in 1703 with the foundation of the Petropavlovskaya Island on Hare Island... ... St. Petersburg (encyclopedia)

PETROGRAD SIDE- historical district of St. Petersburg, a group of 4 islands (Aptekarsky, Petrovsky, Zayachiy and the largest of them Petrogradsky, area 570 hectares, originally called Berezovy) in the river delta. Neva. The construction of St. Petersburg began here.… …

Petrograd side- historical district of St. Petersburg, a group of 4 islands (Aptekarsky, Petrovsky, Zayachiy and the largest of them Petrogradsky, area 570 hectares, original name Berezovy) in the delta of the river. Neva. The construction of St. Petersburg began here.… … encyclopedic Dictionary

Petrograd side- Petrogradskaya side (in St. Petersburg) ... Russian spelling dictionary

Trinity Square (Petrograd Side)- This term has other meanings, see Trinity Square. Coordinates: 59°57′09.94″ N. w. 30°19′32.26″ E. d... Wikipedia

city ​​side- Part of city. In ancient Novgorod, Sophia and Torgovaya, in St. Petersburg, Vyborg, Moscow, Petrograd. * * * CITY SIDE CITY SIDE, part of the city. In ancient Novgorod, Sophia and Torgovaya, in St. Petersburg, Vyborg, ... ... encyclopedic Dictionary

Side- Side: The side of a polygon is the line segment connecting its two adjacent vertices. Side of the obligation Side of the international treaty Warring sides Sides of the world Sides of the coin: obverse and reverse Sides of the cassette: “A” and “B” Used in names... ... Wikipedia

CITY SIDE- Part of city. In ancient Novgorod, the Sophia and Torgovaya, in St. Petersburg, the Vyborg, Moscow, Petrograd... Big Encyclopedic Dictionary

St. Petersburg side- Petrogradskaya side is one of the historical districts of St. Petersburg, located within the administrative boundaries of the Petrogradsky district of the city. Map of the Petrograd side, ca. 1925 Consists of several islands, the largest of which are: ... Wikipedia

Books

  • Petrograd side. Bolshoi Avenue, Nikitenko Galina Yurievna, Privalov Valentin Dmitrievich. The book tells about all the houses on Bolshoy Prospekt on the Petrograd side. An analysis of the development of the highway and the architectural characteristics of the most interesting buildings are given. Provides information about... Buy for 920 UAH (Ukraine only)
  • Petrograd side. Bolshoy Prospekt - 2nd edition. , Privalov V.D., Nikitenko G.Yu.. 366 p. The book tells about all the houses on Bolshoy Prospekt on the Petrograd side. An analysis of the development of the highway and the architectural characteristics of the most interesting buildings are given. Given…

What does an ordinary tourist know about the Petrograd side? The fact that there, on the other bank of the Neva (if you count from Nevsky Prospekt) stands the Peter and Paul Fortress, and that you definitely need to visit it.

It is also possible that the Petrograd side is the place from which the construction of St. Petersburg began. That is why on Petrovskaya Embankment stands the House of Peter I, built in 1703, simultaneously with the founding of the fortress and the founding of St. Petersburg.

And, of course, Aurora. The same cruiser that dreams of something when “the quiet northern city is dozing and at the hour when morning rises over the Neva.”

Unfortunately, after visiting these three attractions, for most tourists who come to St. Petersburg for the first time or not, their acquaintance with the Petrograd side ends. But how many amazing and multifaceted things are contained in this area!

The Petrograd side can rightfully be considered the most interesting and diverse tourist area. On the streets and avenues of Petrogradka there are houses in the Art Nouveau style, a cathedral mosque, lived the famous ballerina and favorite of Nicholas II - Matilda Kshesinskaya, lived S.M. Kirov is one of the most prominent figures of the revolution. Films known throughout the country were shot in the Lenfilm film studios; in the Kamchatka boiler room, Viktor Tsoi composed songs that became the anthem of an entire generation. The Petrograd side is amazing and diverse. We invite you to take a route that will introduce you to this area and, we are sure, will give you a real joy of discovery.

Our route, surprisingly, we will start not on the Petrograd side, but on the left bank of the Neva, on Suvorovskaya Square, at the foot of Trinity Bridge. Trinity Bridge is inseparable from the Petrograd side, both in name and in history.

The history of the Trinity Bridge is connected with the places whose continuations it is. The 10-span bridge connects Suvorovskaya and Troitskaya squares; this is the third permanent bridge built across the Neva. It is notable for a huge number of facts, and here are just a few of them: Trinity Bridge is perhaps the most beautiful bridge across the Neva. Its lanterns have a “postcard look”, and the structure itself, spans, grilles, lanterns and floor lamps are made in the Art Nouveau style.

Trinity Bridge has a sister bridge - Pont Alexandre III in Paris. If you were on both, you couldn’t help but notice the amazing similarity, with the only difference being the length - the Parisian bridge is shorter and lower, and has only one span. The bridge in Paris was opened in 1896, in St. Petersburg - in 1903. The bridges became a symbol of the strengthening of the Franco-Russian Union; both opening ceremonies were attended by the heads of the Russian Empire and the French Republic.

Trinity Bridge has changed its name very often throughout its history. Initially, founded in 1803, the bridge was called Petersburg. In 1827, it was decided to change the name; the choice was between the Suvorovsky and Trinity bridges, because a crossing connected these two squares. We chose the name Trinity Bridge. After the revolution, in 1918 the bridge was renamed the Equality Bridge, and in 1934, after the murder of Kirov, it was renamed Kirovsky. And in 1991 the historical name was returned. The name Kirovsky Bridge, like Trinity, had the right to exist on a topographic basis. The bridge goes into Kamennoostrovsky Avenue, which in Soviet times was called Kirovsky because of the location of this revolutionary figure’s apartment on it, in building 26.

The Pulkovo meridian passes through the Trinity Bridge. The prime meridian used by cartographers of the Russian Empire until the 20th century. There is a mark on the bridge railing about the location of the meridian.

Trinity Bridge went down in history about the Soviet test pilot Vasily Chkalov. According to legend, a young pilot flew under the bridge supports without touching the water. This legend is depicted in the film about the Hero of the Soviet Union, although there is no documentary evidence of this.

Trinity Bridge, with all its interesting history, also has outstanding beauty. Walking through it is a pleasure. Consider the bridge elements, fancy lights and grille. Enjoy the gentle breeze and enchanting views from the bridge. This is the best start to the route through the amazing Petrogradka.

We do not turn off the bridge, as thousands of tourists do to the Peter and Paul Fortress (it is included in our classic route along the Petrograd side), but turn right onto Trinity Square. As already mentioned, the Trinity Bridge got its name precisely from the name of this square, which, in turn, was named after the Trinity-Petrovsky Cathedral, which stood on it.

You will be surprised, but now you are on the oldest square of St. Petersburg, which for some time was even the main square of the young northern capital. Yes, yes, it was Trinity Square that began its history along with the founding of the city. Unfortunately, the cathedral standing on it did not survive Soviet times and was demolished in 1933. In memory of its existence, a small chapel of the Life-Giving Trinity was erected not long ago. However, most likely, your attention is drawn not to her, but to the central composition of the square - stone monument “Prisoners of the Gulag”.

Look to the right - you will see two houses, one with columns and one more modest in the constructivist style closer to the embankment. This second light gray house is called House of political prisoners. The fate of this house and its residents, as well as the square itself, is unhappy. The communal house at 1 Troitskaya Square was built in 1931-1933 for former political prisoners of the tsarist regime. Honorary residents who suffered from the old system and its injustice were supposed to move in here. Residents moved in, however, many of them did not manage to live in new apartments with stunning views of the fortress and the Neva for long.

From 1933-1934, after the murder of Kirov, which was and will be discussed on our route, the era of the “Great Terror” began and most of the residents were either sent to the Gulag or shot. Thus, it turned out that the residents of this house were out of favor under both the one and the other regime. In memory of these events, a memorial stone was erected on Trinity Square.

Already standing on Trinity Square, you can guess where we will go next - huge baths are already appearing from behind the trees Cathedral Mosque of St. Petersburg. The Juma Mosque with a capacity of 5,000 people was built in 1909-1920 in Art Nouveau style in sky blue and gold colors. It is interesting that the conversation about the need to build a prayer house for Muslims (there were many Tatars in military service in the garrisons of St. Petersburg) began at the turn of the 17th and 19th centuries, and construction was permitted only more than 100 years later. Today the mosque is operational; the minaret and facade have recently been reconstructed. The St. Petersburg Cathedral Mosque serves as a place of prayer for a million Muslims, and as a beautiful monument and striking landmark for millions of tourists.

Next to the Cathedral Mosque there is a building that is impossible to pass by without paying attention to it. In this it is similar to its first owner - Matilda Kshesinskaya. The prima ballerina of the Marinsky Theater was the first (and perhaps unfinished) love of Nicholas II, from whom she received this gift mansion with truly royal disposition.

Today his address is: st. Kuibysheva, 2-4/Kronversky Avenue, 1. Matilda Kshesinskaya is the brightest person of the early 20th century. In the salons of her mansion there is the whole world of the city and all representatives of the Romanov family. On excursions dedicated to the hot spots of St. Petersburg, this mansion is called the “brothel of Nicholas II.” Whether this is true or not, we will not discuss; we will only say that Kshesinskaya was a lady of a strong, fiery character and no less brilliant talent, and her mansion is an original and attractive example of the Art Nouveau style.

After the revolution, the mansion was actively used, V.I. worked in it. Lenin, I.V. Stalin, G.E. Zinoviev. Afterwards a museum was created. Kirov. Today the mansion is located Museum of Political History of Russia.

Next we cross Kronversky and Kamennoostrovsky avenues in order to see. The main attractions of St. Petersburg, the monument to the Architects of the city and the Apostle Peter with the keys to the city are located in Alexander Park, deep between the Gorkovskaya metro station and the Velikan Park cinema. A very interesting attraction where you can see the Admiralty building, the Kazan Cathedral and the Savior on Spilled Blood, the Spit of Vasilyevsky Island and the Engineering Castle.

Mini-SPb, as it is sometimes called, was created as a tourist site several years ago and was initially completely open - tourists could easily move between the replica buildings. Due to the fact that such exploitation caused severe damage to small parts of the buildings, the area on which the miniatures stand was fenced off. The entrance (or rather the approach) is free, but you will not be able to touch the Admiralty spire with your hands. However, viewing the sights in miniature is even more convenient.

We return to Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt, and house 1-3 is another stop on our route. The apartment building of E.A. Lidval is another unique example of northern modernism, built by order of his mother by a famous architect of the early 20th century. You can learn more about the Art Nouveau style by following our route “Counting Owls, or Northern Art Nouveau of the Petrograd Side”, and in this route just look at this unusual structure - play if you are not alone, who will find more outlandish elements, animals, insects and flowers.

After getting acquainted with the house, which makes you smile, we invite you to take a walk along Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt. This historical street, at the very beginning called the Road to Kamenny Island, will pleasantly surprise you with the variety of house facades. On your way you will meet Austrian Square - elegant and airy, and Lev Tolstoy Square - strict and a little gloomy.

House 26 - Benoit's house is notable not only for its famous architects and unusual planning solution, but also for the fact that it houses the museum-apartment of S.M. Kirov, with whose name the dough is associated with the Soviet era of the history of Petrograd. You will learn more about how the revolution changed the course of history and what they did and how its leaders worked on our route “From Petrograd to Leningrad”, but for now, passing this house, we go to a very nice corner of Petrogradka - Andrei Petrov Square.

Andrey Petrov is a composer whose pure, sparkling music you certainly know. His melodies, as they would say today, are the soundtracks to Soviet films “Beware of the Car”, “Office Romance”, “Autumn Marathon”, “St. Petersburg Secrets”, “Say a Good Word for the Poor Hussar”. Andrei Petrov wrote music not only for theater and cinema, but also chamber, orchestral and instrumental works. During his lifetime, the composer joked that nothing would have to be renamed in his honor because of his surname, which was already consonant with a large number of attractions in the city of Petra.

Indeed, nothing had to be renamed, but the garden was created in his honor. Thanks to the efforts of the residents of the Petrograd side and Andrei Petrov, as one of them, the site intended for development was defended and turned into a public garden. The composer planted a rowan tree in the garden, which is marked with a special music fence and a memorial plaque. A year after the founding of the square, Andrei Pavlovich passed away, but the square remained and became one of his favorite vacation spots.

Andrey Petrov Square has two interesting attractions - the century wall (on the right) and a set of violin sculptures. The “Sphinx Violin” will meet you at the entrance to the park, which she guards. The “violin-throne” symbolizes a musical pause, and the “violin-gramophone” symbolizes musical classics.

“Swan Violin” will tell about musical perfection, and “Woman Violin” will tell about the composer’s inspiration. The square is very pleasant, you want to spend time in it and just relax. Therefore, we stock up on Andrei Petrov’s melodies, sit in the garden and enjoy.

After recovering in the shade of the trees, we continue our journey. Having reached Leo Tolstoy Square (more details on the route “Northern Modern of the Petrograd Side”), we turn to Bolshoi Avenue of the Petrograd Side. This is a fairly long street, with a lot of cafes, restaurants and shops. You will definitely find what you want on it.

Our next route point is just at the end of the avenue, so take a leisurely stroll along it, looking at houses and making purchases. Having reached the beginning of the avenue (we moved to reduce the numbering of houses), we turn onto Blokhin Street. The address of Blokhin, 15 is known to everyone who knows that “if you have a pack of cigarettes in your pocket, then everything is not so bad today.”

Club-Museum "Kamchatka"- a legendary place created on the site of a boiler house, where the lead singer of the rock group “Kino”, Viktor Tsoi, worked as a fireman. Today the club operates as a concert venue and bar. You will recognize that you are moving correctly and have come to that very courtyard by the increasing amount of graffiti on the walls and drunk people on the street. Whether to go to “Kamchatka” or not is your choice, but we could not help but mention this place when talking about the Petrograd side.

We return back and find ourselves in the Uspensky and Prince Vladimirsky squares and their main attraction - Prince Vladimir Cathedral. The temple is an architectural monument in a style transitional from Baroque to Classicism; in Soviet times, the icon of the Kazan Mother of God was located here for some time (at a time when the Kazan Cathedral was closed to believers). The cathedral and the green areas around it are our penultimate point of the route. If you want, you can rest, but if not, then we go to the Sportivnaya metro station and go to our hotel or home.

However, do not rush to jump into the subway car. Herself Sportivnaya station - attraction. The station got its name, as you might guess, from its proximity to the Petrovsky stadium and the Yubileiny Sports Palace. The station, like many in St. Petersburg, is deep and has a depth of 64 meters. But that’s not what’s interesting about it, but the fact that the station has a passenger a conveyor that moves passengers under the Malaya Neva. The Sportivnaya station has exits on the Petrogradskaya side and on Vasilyevsky Island. So, finally, we recommend taking a ride on a travelator in a blue-lit tunnel and feeling what it’s like to move freely under the river.

Our route has ended, we are sure that the Petrograd side was able to surprise and enchant you. By the way, due to certain town planning laws, until the middle of the 19th century, it was impossible to build brick buildings in Petrogradka, only wooden ones, and this area of ​​the city was considered quite poor. And today it is one of the most prestigious and fashionable. So the Petrograd side with its Kshesinskaya mansion, the house of political prisoners and the beautiful houses of northern modernism, built on the site of wooden dachas, best shows that everything is changing and sometimes turns in a completely opposite and unexpected direction. Amazing, isn't it?


Petrogradskaya side - or Petrogradka, as the locals call it - is a quiet and calm area of ​​St. Petersburg, where all the residents have already become familiar with each other. While walking along the local streets, you need to keep your eyes peeled: here and there real castles in the “northern modern” style rise from behind the trees, and the best shops of the city are hidden in the alleys.

A small coffee shop opened in an old grotto on the site of an obscure tavern in the Alexander Garden two years ago and somehow immediately began to be considered almost the best coffee place in the city. The beans here are roasted and ground independently and they always let you know what blend the coffee is being made from today. The menu includes the familiar cappuccino and the more rare Chario and Chemex. For food, they offer “Yummy Porridge” and cheesecakes for breakfast, sandwiches with chicken and ham, salads and pastries. There is catastrophically little space inside the establishment, so on a fine day with coffee you should go outside to an artificial pond with fish, where wooden tray tables and chairs are placed. The view is not very stunning, but it is ideal for a stop before the assault on the Peter and Paul Fortress located a stone's throw away.
The establishment has two disadvantages: despite the stated opening time at 10 am, even at the beginning of 11 am you risk finding it closed, and the absence of any toilet. If there is one, then the employees of Bolshekofe! They would rather die in agony than admit it.

A place of power where you understand what history is. If you remember that these granite slabs were lying here three hundred years ago, and this river was also licking the sand, then you get the complete impression of being transported in time. The entire Petropavlovka is imbued with historical stories - people prayed here from time immemorial, money was minted here, people died in prisons here. When you are done with exploring the inside of the fortress, go out to the beach and peer at the Neva Banks. Centuries passed, eras changed, and Pushkin’s contemporaries looked at the colorful houses that grew up on the opposite bank, just as you do now. Now bronze “walruses” sunbathe freely (from March to the polar night), play volleyball, art school students work on their summer assignments, the running club warms up and romantic ladies carefully drink.

Almost a secret restaurant or pretending to be one near the station. m. Gorkovskaya. The sign informs about the interior salon, which is also worthy of attention, and a little less noticeably - that here you can satisfy not only your designer hunger. The cuisine is Franco-Belgian, the names of the dishes sound like something fabulous: in fact, “Bouquet o nerp au Cana"r” turns out to be a salad with Italian dandelions, strawberries and duck breast. There are brunches until two o’clock in the afternoon, with croissants baked right there , an extensive menu with appetizers, soups and hot dishes, the confectionery shop also presents itself well. The place is cozy and dark (although the tablecloths in roses can melt any heart), not very fashionable, but extremely decent. Mostly locals who live nearby come here, which is the best guarantee of quality.

The history of the collection began at the beginning of the 18th century, when Peter the Great ordered the creation of an apothecary garden, where plants were grown for the needs of the army and navy. Then the vegetable garden gradually turned into a garden, exotic plants began to be imported there, and now it is one of the largest in Russia. It’s good to come to the Botanical Garden in the summer, when everything is in bloom, go to the far corner - the Chinese Garden - and sit in the round gazebo. Firstly, there is interesting folklore on the walls, and secondly, there is a beautiful view of the flower beds. If you come here in the spring, be sure to stop by to admire the cherry blossoms - a couple of years ago several Japanese specimens of this tree were planted here.

One of those places where the appearance of the establishment says nothing about what awaits the visitor. It looks like a shabby cafe with a dimly lit hall and an interior in the style of the early 2000s, but in reality it is a mecca for gourmets. Here they prepare the most authentic homemade ice cream, but the tastes cannot be called ordinary - Borodino bread, tikka masala, goji berries, sour cream and cinnamon, mustard and saffron, peanut, tomatoes and mozzarella... Alas, the entire list of items is never on the counter - the costs of homemade production, so first you need to carefully examine the product presented in the window.
Honest 100 gr. They put it in a wine glass (they don’t mix varieties), but they can also make it “to go”; a serving costs 140-150 rubles. Just don’t flatter yourself – it’s impossible to eat more than two, no matter how tasty they are.
In addition to ice cream, it is worth trying the local lingonberry cake and cannelloni. Only for the second time.



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